76 kz900 camshaft timing photo frenzie

I put the engine together on my bike today, and I took some pictures to try and help others in the timing process.

this is the mark on the exhaust cam, it is borderline microscopic and looks like this thing ^, I think that's called a carrot. the easiest way to find it is to notice the "triangle formed by the cam sprocket bolts, the mark is at the "top" of this triangle, I believe that spot is called the vertex angle of the isosceles triangle. you cant even make out the mark in this pic, but Larry C. was nice enough to put some silver marks on my timing marks.

this is the timing mark inside the ignition cover for TDC of cylinders 1&4

I was just a tiny smidge off, but you get the idea

This is the exhaust cam installed, it is important that before you set the chain on the sprocket that you make sure it is tight on the crank sprocket, and that it stays tight. if there is a link bound up down there as soon as you turn the engine over one or both of your cams will be off by a tooth

Note: the tach drive is situated to the right looking down on engine, and the large round part(we will call it the locator wheel, as it is there to limit the cam from walking right or left) is under the left hand #1 bearing cap. I forget the book torque spec for the cam caps, But I was told 8 ft.lbs. also, don't go crazy with the engine assembly lube on the lobes at this point, it will just make it difficult to measure the valve lash.

Edit: before installing the exhuast cam, remove the tach drive gear, it can be put in with the gear in place, but you will forget that its there, and bend it.(guilty)

This is the timing mark on the intake cam, you will notice the #28, with the link above the "carrot" count off 28 pins and place that pin here. so the pin at the carrot is #0, then start 1,2,3,4. This step is incredibly easy to screw up, count at least 3 times!!!

The "locator wheel" is also situated to the left on the intake cam, and if you look closely, you can see that Kawi used the same blank for intake and exhuast cams, You will see where they smash the tach drive in.

Now install the cam tower idler sprocket or whatever its called, and release the cam chain tensioner. aw crap, guess I should explain that. The cam chain tensioner is on the back of the motor in the middle of the jug. It is a spring loaded mechanism that is locked in place by a bolt with a locknut. before installation of the cams you should remove it, compress the spring and lock it in place, then reinstall. when you get to this step, you loosen the bolt to release it, thus tightening the portion of the chain going from the intake cam to the crank, and preventing it from jumping time. after loosening it, turn the engine over(CAREFULLY, BY HAND!!!) if it binds at ALL, something is wrong, start from scratch. rotate the engine a time or two(in the proper direction) and bring it back around to TDC for cylinders one and four, you should see this again, if so, it is timed correctly

This is looking in from cyl#4 (right side)
notice that cylinder fours cams point at each other, and the marks on the end of the camshaft.

This is the view from the left side, cyl#1

Notice that cylinder#1's lobes point away from each other, and so do the triangles formed by the cam sprocket bolts. also not a bad time to recount your 28 pins, had to pop the tower sprocket, but this wont harm anything as long as you dont turn the engine over. an ounce of prevention...

Nice explanation and pics, thanks!

Thanks, now this is when you move on to checking you valve lash, after that is set within specs, then hit all the lobes with some assembly lube