TK 22 Dyno jet instructions Suck !

I understand (loudhvx. )I apologize for jumping around with about 3 differn't threads on this subject. I am using emgo pod filters, stock exhaust for now. Reed valve holes blocked.

Last time we talked I was looking for a jet kit to use. I went with the dyno jet kit. You talked about #96 for the Mains and the pilots from 34 to 37.

I haven't used the 98 mains simply because it states in the dyno directions to refer to "chart 1". Which I guess I'm missing because I cannot find a "chart 1" in the dyno-jet packge. I want to follow your advice in what to do in those terms.

Thanks Gar

If you are running pods, jet changes are easy, so I would just try out the 98 mains. They might work.

If they do, then you'll have a backup set of 92 mains you can hold on to. If the 98's are too rich, then I'd try 96.

Also, I should point out that the wide-open throttle stop is often set to tlet the throttle open farther than 100%. If that's the case, wide open will be richer than just under 100%. There are notes on this on the tk22 site. home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/TK22mai...stmentsAndMaint.html

Thank you very much, 98s sound like a good start. I just wanna confirm this as well,where should I set the clip on the needles? Should the pilots still be drilled out to 37?

Gar

Start with the needles at the 3rd clip from the top. I would set the pilots to 37 with pods. An argument could be made for 34, but I think 37 is going to be what you want.

Ok I installed the needles 3 steps down from the top, put in #98 mains. I left the pilots stock for the moment. Tested it and it seemed to run pretty lean. I adjusted the air mixture screws from all the way in to one complete turn ou.t Now The plugs look somewhat richer, a rust brown color and not so white at the tips like they where. So a suttle improvment but I believe I will have to find a drill bit to drill out the pilots to 37, I'm assuming this will richen things up a bit?

Also am having one heck of a time keeping the idle at 1 and a half to 2 thousand rpms. Seems like after its good and hot and i hit the throttle it doesn't wanna come down. Its staying between 3-4 thousand rpms.
only way I can bring it back down is to do an engine brake to give it a lil resistance. What might cause this?

Here is a site with some wire gauge drill bits with a pin vise. If your to lean it can cause a hanging throtte, but double check for vacuum leaks and carb mechanical return. Throttle cable, and slides.
www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel-drill-bit-wire-gauge

I've jetted several 550's and have had them super rich to super lean in the process, but that never resulted in a hanging throttle. The only time I've had hanging throttles was with a vacuum leak as Motor Head said, or with an actual mechanical cable/linkage issue. Make sure you have a good 5 degrees of throttle slop in the cable, or more, actually, at least until you get the jetting finalized.

Thanks guys. Since my last post (last night) the hanging problem has gone away. Not sure what happend, I will look at the cables tonight anyway.
This morning I went to cold start it with the choke all the way on. It started up but never reved up very much. It only went to just above 2,000rpms. I turned the choke completely off after a minute and it was holding a nice idle between 1,500 and 2,ooo rpms. My 20 miles ride to work went real smooth engine seemed to be happy. When I left work to go home today, it did the same thing when i started it and ran nicely all the way home no hanging rpms no pops or sputters. The only tuning I had done was yesterday when I turned in the air adjustment screws to get a better idle. Would this cause the choke to act this way?

By the way here is the color my plugs look, sorry for the blurry pics.

I sprayed a lil starting fluid around the intakes and found carb 1 has a leak in the seal. I tried to tighten it up but I think Ill have to get new gaskets.

Your plugs look pretty good. The 550's were pretty lean from the factory so the plugs tend to be pretty light colored. Usually the ring around the end of the threaded part gets pretty black, but the insulator tip ad the ground electrode should be either tan or medium gray... I think it depends on the fuel what color they turn out.

Z1 has new carb holders for 550's. :woohoo: Finally!
www.z1enterprises.com/Carb-Holders-Kawasaki-KZ550-2680.aspx

and looks likeairbox ducts too! These used to be impossible to come by good ones.
www.z1enterprises.com/Airbox-Hoses-4-Kaw...KZ550-KZ650-331.aspx

While you're at it...as long as theses are the same material as the factory ones, they are a good deal. The cheapo ones that you ge at auto parts stores crack within a few weeks/months.
www.z1enterprises.com/Carb-Holders-5-Vacuum-plugs-444.aspx

Thank you so much! You are always here for us. I took a closer look at the tk 22 info site and found the missing specs sheet for my dyno kit, a nice clear photo of the directions. Awsome!! That came in very handy. I have gone back and reread a lot I didn't understand in the beginning that is all making a lot more sense to me know that I'm getting this involved in the carb tune. Just the best help here of any place I know. I've been ordering parts from Z1 enterprises since I bought the bike and started working on it. Its a great place to shop.

Gar

Yup, just got me some fuel valves from Z1E. Ordered Friday, got it on Tuesday!
Can't beat them.

Thanks for the kind words about the site.