++ Changing RINGS.

Any other to-do's while your're in there? I may have to do valve guides as well. Any advice?

Much love, Kalani-

I found out valve guides don't wear unless they are abused or installed wrong. My 750 had 75k miles so I bought new guides and the old ones had zero wear.

Definitely do the valves and valve seals.

thats must depend on the model. the kz900/1000 guides do wear out.

One thing for sure... Replace Chain tensioner guides (KZ 900/1000 = plastic/polymer)!

Definitely replace the rubber dampner pads (over the shafts) as well.

BTW, nice on the paint job...

Lap the valves, new timing chain components and guide seals. Tach seal, end plugs. Use NO sealer on cylinder base gasket. Install DRY!! Center O-ring, oil only. NO sealer(no sillycone).
And don't pressure wash that bike.

You can't accurately tell anything about the condition of the valve guides until you take head apart.

If it's a 900 and virgin, it would have the old OEM bronze guides. 1000's were cast iron. The 1000s held up good. The 900's didn't hold up near as well.

With the lack of lubrication in our fuel today, I would advise replacing valves rather than reface the old ones. Kibble White Valves are a good choice. The aftermarket OEM replacement type valves are cheaper and sometimes quite heavy. You get what you pay for.

New valve springs are also the best option. Again choices are available. Kibble White or APE the two I use predominately. For small cams [stock - .440 lift] I use APE. For serious cams [.440 and up] Kibbles...

LarryC wrote: You can't accurately tell anything about the condition of the valve guides until you take head apart.

If it's a 900 and virgin, it would have the old OEM bronze guides. 1000's were cast iron. The 1000s held up good. The 900's didn't hold up near as well.

With the lack of lubrication in our fuel today, I would advise replacing valves rather than reface the old ones. Kibble White Valves are a good choice. The aftermarket OEM replacement type valves are cheaper and sometimes quite heavy. You get what you pay for.

New valve springs are also the best option. Again choices are available. Kibble White or APE the two I use predominately. For small cams [stock - .440 lift] I use APE. For serious cams [.440 and up] Kibbles...

Larry, is this what you are talking about?

valvetrain.kpmivalvetrain.com/category/i...-900-br-1973-to-1977

Fantastic. Thank you guys!

I'm guessing I don't need to resurface the head or should I since it's off?

Also, is changing the main wiring harness a massive job?

BlackZ1R wrote:

LarryC wrote: You can't accurately tell anything about the condition of the valve guides until you take head apart.

If it's a 900 and virgin, it would have the old OEM bronze guides. 1000's were cast iron. The 1000s held up good. The 900's didn't hold up near as well.

With the lack of lubrication in our fuel today, I would advise replacing valves rather than reface the old ones. Kibble White Valves are a good choice. The aftermarket OEM replacement type valves are cheaper and sometimes quite heavy. You get what you pay for.

New valve springs are also the best option. Again choices are available. Kibble White or APE the two I use predominately. For small cams [stock - .440 lift] I use APE. For serious cams [.440 and up] Kibbles...

Larry, is this what you are talking about?

valvetrain.kpmivalvetrain.com/category/i...-900-br-1973-to-1977

Yes.

A clean up cut on the head certainly won't hurt anything. Why not make sure it's flat while it's apart.

Wiring harness is plug and play.

The bike kept blowing the main fuse for a good while.. Unable to find the intermittent problem, I'm guessing it has to do with the old wiring. Maybe it's grounding out somewhere?