Valve cover & auto tensioner

A cross wedge tensioner will allow you to simply remove the cross wedge plunger cap, spring and plunger. Once those are removed, the main plunger can retract. You don't have to remove the entire tensioner body.

The ball lock type, like those found on 79 models with the automatic tensioners, will not allow the plunger to return inward unless you remove it from the engine and go through the loading process manually.


Effectively, with a cross wedge type, the main plunger can slip backward even under running conditions if the cross wedge spring starts to become weak. That is the weak point of those tensioners and the reason for APE and other manual tensioners to be used in performance builds.

You should never find an old ball lock tensioner on a J motor. I use them on KZ motors but convert them to manual lock with a longer 6mm bolt and lock nut. They work perfectly that way. The only time I opt for an after market manual tensioner is for high performance engines running a HyVo chain.

Hope that helps clear this up

Thanks.

martin_csr wrote:

LarryC wrote: A cross wedge tensioner will allow you to simply remove the cross wedge plunger cap, spring and plunger. Once those are removed, the main plunger can retract. You don't have to remove the entire tensioner body.

The ball lock type, like those found on 79 models with the automatic tensioners, will not allow the plunger to return inward unless you remove it from the engine and go through the loading process manually.


Effectively, with a cross wedge type, the main plunger can slip backward even under running conditions if the cross wedge spring starts to become weak. That is the weak point of those tensioners and the reason for APE and other manual tensioners to be used in performance builds.

Thanks. So, does that mean the cross-wedge type adjusts the cam chain slack in & out? It seems like I wouldn't have to bother with the tensioner then. I'll go ahead & do it if I have to, but if it isn't necessary, why bother. hee.

Edit: I think I misinterpreted the part about the plunger slipping backwards. It's not supposed to do that, is it.

Correct. It is not supposed to do that, but hopefully will when there is too much tension on the chain.

Like Larry said, all you have to do is take the cap off of the tensioner. It's the 17mm hex on the tensioner. You can probably get to it with a socket under the carbs. Just remove it with the spring. Bolt the cover back on, then, put the spring and cap back in place. That way there is no guessing, and no extra wear on the guides.

Thanks.

Before resetting the tensioner, do I have to align the timing marks there at the timing advancer? Thanks.

martin_csr wrote: Before resetting the tensioner, do I have to align the timing marks there at the timing advancer? Thanks.

Not normally, as long as nothing moved. If it sounds like something may have jumped, then it wouldn't hurt to check.

When turning the motor you want the tensioner in and tensioning.
Never turn the motor backwards. Only forward.
Make sure to put some tension on the chain with your hand in place of the valve cover in order to rotate the crank to TDC.
Check the TDC mark on the exhaust cam.
Count links to the intake cam mark.
Then remove the cap and spring to remove tension (cross wedge should stay in place).
Then install valve cover.
Then install cap and spring.
Then slowly turn motor over by hand.

If the valve cover gets installed without removing the tensioner tension, all that is necessary to reduce tension is remove cap and spring, Wiggle the crosswedge, then re-install cap and spring. (This all only pertains to hy-vo chains, of course.)

BTW, if taken apart, the wedges need to be cleaned and have molybdenum disulfide grease applied to the "sliding surfaces". By that, I think they mean wedge faces, but maybe they mean the entire pieces of the pushrod on cross wedge.

martin_csr wrote:

saxonpirate wrote: Very interesting and informative post. Trouble is its got me thinking. I've just had the cam cover off of my Z1100 Ltd to sort the leaks in the end caps. The chain definitely had some slack in it, and I'm hoping this procedure doesn't apply to my bike...

Oh for a stress free life... :ohmy:

I can't say for sure, but if there was slack when you removed the cover & there was still slack when you put it back on, then you're probably fine. Turning the crankshaft (which is what I did) will take out the slack there between the camshaft sprockets.

In that case Martin, I probably am fine. The slack was definitely there in the chain and I "didn't" turn the crankshaft. Thanks for that...

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