Valve Adjustment Time?

z1enterprises.com
They will have the shims, valve cover gasket, and the Tool. They are close to you, so shipping should be quick. Shim over, and pretty simple to change them. You may be able to swap a couple around to get the adjustment, or just a couple of new shims. Good to know they are set right for the piece of mind, you don't want to mess with it while on your trip.

blipco wrote: I just recieved my factory repair manual. It is brand new. What a deal. I am surprised to see "shim over bucket". Is this true on my 2002 engine? (I know this sounds like a stupid question but researching the site, pictures I've seen look like "shim under bucket"). If so, are the shims 29mm? Also, what would be the best tool to get to remove the shims. I see a Motion Pro hand tool available though the manual shows a Kawasaki tool that holds the bucket down.

Yes, shim over bucket.....

Thanks all. I was at Z1 Enterprises today. Shim over bucket, piece of cake. I'll order up the gaskets. Shims are all over e-bay if necessary as well. I'm told the head bolts loosen up so I'll look into tightening those while I'm under the hood.
Should I do anything with the cam chain tensioner besides resetting it? Thank's again, Mark.

blipco wrote: Thanks all. I was at Z1 Enterprises today. Shim over bucket, piece of cake. I'll order up the gaskets. Shims are all over e-bay if necessary as well. I'm told the head bolts loosen up so I'll look into tightening those while I'm under the hood.
Should I do anything with the cam chain tensioner besides resetting it? Thank's again, Mark.

Checking valve lash is a simple process. Changing shims is also a simple process, made easier by purchasing the old style OEM tool to hold the bucket down. Yes it costs more. Yes, it's worth it IMHO.

I have both old and new style shim tools. I use the wedge from the new one to open the valve and install the old tool to hold the bucket down. That little wedge that's part of the new style tool is a pain to get set right on the inside cylinders. I've seen them slip and come shooting out :ohmy:

Point each lobe straight away from the shim. Check your clearances right there. You want them toward the looser end .015mm or .006". You may find that you don't need to change any shims.

Anything under .10mm or .004" should receive a thinner shim. Your target range is .10 to .15mm .004" - .006".

Remove the cross wedge plunger cap from the tensioner. Remove the spring and plunger. Then remove the valve cover. Check your clearances. Adjust as needed.

Install valve cover and tighten down. Lastly install the removed tensioner parts. Synch carbs is the final part of the tune up.

With BS Mikuni carbs, using lock nuts on the synch adjusters....

There are 3 synch adjusters. One balances 1 & 2 carb. One balances 3 & 4 carb. The center one ballances the two pairs. It can be a fussy process on those carbs the first time you attempt it. It's a "feel thing". Don't loosen the lock nuts way off. It's tightening them down throws you adjustment off.

Put a fan on the engine when you synch the carbs.

I don't know about an 02. Perhaps Kaw got smart and put some CVK Keihins on them with phillips screw synch adjusters. If they did, it's cake. No lock nut to fuss with

Larry, thank you. As you suggest I will spring for the nice old style bucket tool and the new one as well. It's always a pleasure to use the right stuff. I want the looser end on BOTH intake and exhaust?
My carbs are the BS34's that everybody is so fond of. When something is good you just have to stick with it .Mark.

Yes, set the valves toward the loose spec.

LarryC wrote: Yes, set the valves toward the loose spec.

Got it. Thank you.

I took the valve cover off. Everything looks perfect. I haven't checked the clearance yet as I don't have the bucket tools yet. (If I wait til I buy the tools I may not need them, you know how that goes :whistle: ).

Can I take the cam chain tensioner off with the BS34's still attached?

MFolks wrote: In the Kawasaki shop manual, there are two(2) incorrect torque values; The camshaft bearing cap bolts(M6 X 1, 16 each) should be 66 inck pounds, not 12 foot pounds. And the cylinder headbolts(M6 X 1, 2 each) should be 96 inch pounds,not 104 inch pounds.

OK, so camshaft cap bolts are down to 66 in-lb. My 82-85 LTD/Spectre/KZ750 manual incorrectly states 104 in-lb, which I have set to 85 in-lb as per this site. So 66 in-lb is a safer torque?

cfaherty wrote:

MFolks wrote: In the Kawasaki shop manual, there are two(2) incorrect torque values; The camshaft bearing cap bolts(M6 X 1, 16 each) should be 66 inck pounds, not 12 foot pounds. And the cylinder headbolts(M6 X 1, 2 each) should be 96 inch pounds,not 104 inch pounds.

OK, so camshaft cap bolts are down to 66 in-lb. My 82-85 LTD/Spectre/KZ750 manual incorrectly states 104 in-lb, which I have set to 85 in-lb as per this site. So 66 in-lb is a safer torque?[/quot

66 in/lbs is correct for cam cap bolts. The 96 in/lbs is for the two small head bolts (not the nuts)one at each end of the head. You have to pull the 1 and 4 spark plugs to get at them with a torque wrench. This is a pretty big typo for Kawasaki, the Clymer is wrong as well. Cheers to MFolks for pointing this out.