Using Electrolysis for Cleaning Fuel Tank

many of you done or tried this? I'm in the process and just wondered as I sit and wait, how others have gone when doing this?
I'm following this on the net, antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
And this: www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html
So first I had the regular baking soda, and it did quite a bit. Then out to ACE Hardware for the recommended Arm & Hammer powder.
First let me say if you do this, add the powder to some quite warm water to dissolve it first, before pouring it in the tank. then fill with cold water. Otherwise it won't dissolve.
So after 2 1/5 days of running on a 10amp battery charger, with it set to 50 amp boost, it is slowly getting clean. I change the water solution every couple of hours and rinse it out. Also wire brush the Cathode electrode, re-bar, so it has a clean surface.
One of my buddies did this with an old tank and had good results.
This tank from my K2 is not to bad, but after several thousand miles I always have a sediment in the bowls. Really fine red crap, I'm hoping this will put an end to it. When I got the bike it had water and rust in the fuel system. I got it pretty cleaned out, but there is still some fine stuff coming through. Its been like 7K miles since I bought it and a couple of years.
So any one else got a good result?



So I tried to take a couple of photo's with my POS camera. this one turned out good enough, but the others= Trash.
There is a piece of re-bar going down inside the plastic funnel, keeping it insulated. The depth is set off the bottom about an inch. the vice grips hold it there. The re-bar has about 4" exposed from the bottom of the funnel, this exposed section is where the transfer takes place. The water keeps coming out clean, but there is still scale attaching to the Cathode= re-bar, so continue to treat. I have the petcock and the Fuel Sending unit removed. i plugged the hole for the sender with a tool I already had, a Block off plate from my Two Stroke Crankcase tester. The petcock, well i have just been placing a fresh piece of Duct Tape over it each water replacement. So far only twice has it decided to leak from there.
I'll try again with the POS next water change, and see if I can get the rusty looking crap to stand out on the re-bar.
I found that if every 1/2 hour you pull the rod out and clean it, it goes much better. Rally starting to look good in there. I can't seem to get a decent photo to same my ass with this POS camera.

Woah, 50 amps is a lot of juice! Is your electric meter spinning like a CD player?

In seriousness, I am interested to see your results. I just acquired a CB750F that has quite a bit of rust in the tank. It would be nice to find an option that doesn't involve the use of that nasty toilet cleaner. Are you planning on lining this tank after the cleanout is over?

Being new at this and not knowing any better, I did the vinegar method. Filled up the tank with about 3 gal or so of cheap Walmart generic vinegar. Left it for a month in about 80 degree avg. temps. here in Fl. Great results. I think 2 weeks would have done it as well. Not everyone can spare that much time having the bike out of commission. But during a rebuild it does the trick. Environmentally friendly too.

testarossa wrote: Woah, 50 amps is a lot of juice! Is your electric meter spinning like a CD player?

In seriousness, I am interested to see your results. I just acquired a CB750F that has quite a bit of rust in the tank. It would be nice to find an option that doesn't involve the use of that nasty toilet cleaner. Are you planning on lining this tank after the cleanout is over?

The tank will be evaluated after this process, but I really don't want a coating/ liner. I am planning a final rinse with Muriatic Acid,well i decided on Phosphoric Acid instead, then hot water, then of course some WD-40, Water Disbursement-formula 40. Only took 40 tries to invent that stuff, and now the whole world uses it. Then blow it dry with Air.
The Phosphoric looks like the better of the two, it will etch the metal, remove rust.

When I did the tank on my KZ1000 I used The Works. It did a good job, but it's nasty stuff. I also did not line my tank since it wasn't leaking. I did still have a little bit of fine stuff that clogged up the fuel filter twice. Once I got to the third filter I have been good since.

Hi MH,

I've tried that method and decided I like the muriatic acid method way better. It takes less time and it can actually clean the top of the tank.

Just my experience.

Bill

KZCSI wrote: Hi MH,

I've tried that method and decided I like the muriatic acid method way better. It takes less time and it can actually clean the top of the tank.

Just my experience.

Bill

Thanks for your opinion. I think this is going to remove rust from any point the water solution contacts. Of course those articals explain that it can take sometime, they are not kidding here, make sure you have plenty of cold beer on hand!

Hello,did mine last week, used arm and hammer washing soda ,it is sodium carbinate ,not bi carboate, took two days to do,looks new inside,Shook some dry wall screwss in tank before I did it as to get most of the big loose rust out, Also dont use stainlees steel as electrode it produces Chromim which is highly toxic,follow with wd 40 if cant fill with gas right away, also it does top of tank ,just need to keep water level to very top.My 2 cents.

XS2 did you use a battery charger, and at what Amperage? How about your choice of metal for the rod?

Muriatic acid works extremely well. Use a chunk of swingset chain to loosen up the big chunks.

Ok so I've been at the electrolysis for quite some hours, like about 30. now I have poured in Phosphoric Acid, Immediately it has taken any slight surface rust away. now I've looked where I could with a small mirror and flash light. I see very little scale anymore, I can see right down along the seam at the bottom, looks really good. With this Acid rinse sitting for 1/2hr then rinse it and look again. I think it will be really clean, and no "Liner" needed. That was my goal.
Highly recommend the Phosphoric Acid, etches it to bare metal quick. The Electrolysis also did a lot of cleaning, worked quite well, although takes time. I think any through method is not going to be a "Slam Dunk", gravy grabbers repair. Like I said make sure the Beer fridge is stocked up Before the work starts.

Watch out when using muriatic acid, it is very strong and the mere fumes can corrode tools, parts and other stuff in the general vicinity if there is a spill just from the fumes. Works great but it is so much stronger than phosphoric acid that you can get your hands on typically.