Head gasket replacement and re-torque

Hey guys,
I haven't been on for a while, with all the great knowledge I got here I felt like I could do anything to my bike without help!(Yeah RIGHT!:lol: ) Anyway, I have a '76 KZ900 and I replaced the rings last year, in the process I damaged my new head gasket but decided to go ahead and use it so I wouldn't have to wait for another. Soon there was oil leaking the #1 cyl. so I decided to replace it recently. OBTW I didn't torque to spec last time, I'm sure it was over-torqued. This time I got the proper torque wrench and did it according to the factory manual. Now I can't keep oil in the bike at all. As soon as I park it a puddle begins to form under the left side. I re-torqued But maybe it was too late? Should I have re-torqed after bringing it to operating temp? How does that work, the manual doesn't specify as far as I can tell.
ThanksB)

The oil is probably coming from the oil passage on the front outside cylinder stud. You would have to pull the jugs if that is the case. Roy

Try retorquing the head bolts. Might just stop the leak. If not, you'll have to pull the head.

When you first assemble with a new head gasket, torque to full spec. Then run the engine up to full temp (like 30 minutes). Let cool and retorque to full spec.

The spec on mine is 30 ft-lbs, most are in that ballpark.

Make sure to replace all the O rings between the cylinder and crankcase and the cylinder and head or they will leak oil.

bountyhunter wrote: When you first assemble with a new head gasket, torque to full spec. Then run the engine up to full temp (like 30 minutes). Let cool and retorque to full spec.

The spec on mine is 30 ft-lbs, most are in that ballpark.

Make sure to replace all the O rings between the cylinder and crankcase and the cylinder and head or they will leak oil.

X2 wont even hurt to do another retorque after a few more heat cycles. always when it is stone cold. there is a dif of opinions on this but i follow the factory pattern and loosen the bolt a bit then retorque it.
the reason for the retorque is because the gasket squishes a we bit after the eng heats and expands.

roy-b-boy-b wrote: The oil is probably coming from the oil passage on the front outside cylinder stud. You would have to pull the jugs if that is the case. Roy

Y would I need to pull the jugs? I thought that's what supplied the valves with oil:dry: