My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
- staniel
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My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
10 May 2011 20:16 - 29 May 2011 15:41
Last summer I broke down my motorcycle to replace the head gasket. This meant also replacing the base gasket. I discovered a broken piston ring and a scratch in one of the cylinders.
The post that started it all
Me, after reading "Newbie's adventures"
Problems after "finishing" the job
So, I got it all working and rode it to Mexico. On the way back: oil leak. I thought it was the base gasket and some guy in Northern California told me I would "almost certainly die". He also tried to sell me a carbureted KZ1000.
Anyway, here's my second go at unbuilding the top-end, and photos of what I did, including dramatic improvements in not-breaking-it.
1. Checking the valve clearances on the way down so I don't have to put the camshafts in over and over again. I noticed before that the tension of the chain makes a huge difference in which feeler gauge fits, so, to stay consistent, I always measured when the camshafts had just "snapped" into place.
2. Using the 17mm nut at the end of the crank to move the camshafts.
3. I marked the camshafts and the corresponding points on the chain (a different mark for each shaft. If these marks stay, then I won't have to think or count when I reinstall them.
4. I didn't know what to do with the dowels beneath the camshaft caps the first time. The second time I removed them with the braces. I loosened the bolts systematically (a half turn or so on each nut until they're all out) so that the camshaft wouldn't put strange pressure on any threads.
5. My cam chain holding device. Later this became a piece of string.
6. I think have to do all this because of a non-OEM head bolt I used, so this time I was systematic about removing the head nuts and bolts, releasing pressure slowly and evenly.
7. I collected bits with a magnet-on-a-stick. A great $5 purchase.
8. Using a rubber mallet was not enough but was surely better than I did last time. I found that gently prying with a screwdriver (covered in cloth), while malleting was very effective.
9. Never ever let the chain fall in! I set up an elaborate system of catches each time I took another piece off the top.
10. Every chunk of gunk I vacuum away is a chunk I don't have to drain out in my first three oil changes.
11. I was very thorough last time with the base gasket gooping and it was a total PITA to get off. After fifteen minutes of pulling with my fingers and delicately trying a screwdriver and worrying I'd killed my bike, I found this extremely effective. Screwdriver under the "738cl", gently prying up, while malleting in quick little strokes.
12. What took me at least a month last year took me part of a day this year!
Now I just have to pull the block out of another engine to replace the one I killed, replace the sleeves with the ones from my bike, and build it back up. If people are interested, I'll post that process, too.
That process can now be found here .
The post that started it all
Me, after reading "Newbie's adventures"
Problems after "finishing" the job
So, I got it all working and rode it to Mexico. On the way back: oil leak. I thought it was the base gasket and some guy in Northern California told me I would "almost certainly die". He also tried to sell me a carbureted KZ1000.
Anyway, here's my second go at unbuilding the top-end, and photos of what I did, including dramatic improvements in not-breaking-it.
1. Checking the valve clearances on the way down so I don't have to put the camshafts in over and over again. I noticed before that the tension of the chain makes a huge difference in which feeler gauge fits, so, to stay consistent, I always measured when the camshafts had just "snapped" into place.
2. Using the 17mm nut at the end of the crank to move the camshafts.
3. I marked the camshafts and the corresponding points on the chain (a different mark for each shaft. If these marks stay, then I won't have to think or count when I reinstall them.
4. I didn't know what to do with the dowels beneath the camshaft caps the first time. The second time I removed them with the braces. I loosened the bolts systematically (a half turn or so on each nut until they're all out) so that the camshaft wouldn't put strange pressure on any threads.
5. My cam chain holding device. Later this became a piece of string.
6. I think have to do all this because of a non-OEM head bolt I used, so this time I was systematic about removing the head nuts and bolts, releasing pressure slowly and evenly.
7. I collected bits with a magnet-on-a-stick. A great $5 purchase.
8. Using a rubber mallet was not enough but was surely better than I did last time. I found that gently prying with a screwdriver (covered in cloth), while malleting was very effective.
9. Never ever let the chain fall in! I set up an elaborate system of catches each time I took another piece off the top.
10. Every chunk of gunk I vacuum away is a chunk I don't have to drain out in my first three oil changes.
11. I was very thorough last time with the base gasket gooping and it was a total PITA to get off. After fifteen minutes of pulling with my fingers and delicately trying a screwdriver and worrying I'd killed my bike, I found this extremely effective. Screwdriver under the "738cl", gently prying up, while malleting in quick little strokes.
12. What took me at least a month last year took me part of a day this year!
Now I just have to pull the block out of another engine to replace the one I killed, replace the sleeves with the ones from my bike, and build it back up. If people are interested, I'll post that process, too.
That process can now be found here .
1983 KZ750 L3 with 4-1 Kerker pipe and pods
1983 KZ750 L3 parts bike
1983 KZ750 L3 parts bike
Last edit: 29 May 2011 15:41 by staniel. Reason: added link for buildup thread
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- gengomerpyle
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
10 May 2011 20:55 - 10 May 2011 20:56post awaystaniel wrote: Last summer I broke down my motorcycle to replace the head gasket. This meant also replacing the base gasket. I discovered a broken piston ring and a scratch in one of the cylinders.
The post that started it all
Me, after reading "Newbie's adventures"
Problems after "finishing" the job
So, I got it all working and rode it to Mexico. On the way back: oil leak. I thought it was the base gasket and some guy in Northern California told me I would "almost certainly die". He also tried to sell me a carbureted KZ1000.
Anyway, here's my second go at unbuilding the top-end, and photos of what I did, including dramatic improvements in not-breaking-it.
1. Checking the valve clearances on the way down so I don't have to put the camshafts in over and over again. I noticed before that the tension of the chain makes a huge difference in which feeler gauge fits, so, to stay consistent, I always measured when the camshafts had just "snapped" into place.
2. Using the 17mm nut at the end of the crank to move the camshafts.
3. I marked the camshafts and the corresponding points on the chain (a different mark for each shaft. If these marks stay, then I won't have to think or count when I reinstall them.
4. I didn't know what to do with these dowels the first time. The second time I removed them with the braces. I loosened the nuts systematically (a half turn or so on each nut until they're all out) so that the camshaft wouldn't put strange pressure on any threads.
5. My cam chain holding device. Later this became a piece of string.
6. I think have to do all this because of a non-OEM head bolt I used, so this time I was systematic about removing the head nuts and bolts, releasing pressure slowly and evenly.
7. I collected bits with a magnet-on-a-stick. A great $5 purchase.
8. Using a rubber mallet was not enough but was surely better than I did last time. I found that gently prying with a screwdriver (covered in cloth), while malleting was very effective.
9. Never ever let the chain fall in! I set up an elaborate system of catches each time I took another piece off the top.
10. Every chunk of gunk I vacuum away is a chunk I don't have to drain out in my first three oil changes.
11. I was very thorough last time with the base gasket gooping and it was a total PITA to get off. After fifteen minutes of pulling with my fingers and delicately trying a screwdriver and worrying I'd killed my bike, I found this extremely effective. Screwdriver under the "738cl", gently prying up, while malleting in quick little strokes.
12. What took me at least a month last year took me part of a day this year!
Now I just have to pull the block out of another engine to replace the one I killed, replace the sleeves with the ones from my bike, and build it back up. If people are interested, I'll post that process, too.
![:) :)](/media/kunena/emoticons/8.png)
1982 GPZ750R1 ELR
1978 Honda CB750F SuperSport
1971 Honda CB750K
1970 Honda CL100 Scrambler
1978 Honda CB750F SuperSport
1971 Honda CB750K
1970 Honda CL100 Scrambler
Last edit: 10 May 2011 20:56 by gengomerpyle.
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- kz750saskatoon
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
10 May 2011 23:17
I'd love if you kept posting pictures. I have a KZ750 as well and I have thought that I should be getting ready to do that in the winter.
1981 KZ750-H2
Saskatoon, SK
Saskatoon, SK
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- dynastydudge
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
11 May 2011 13:41
please post, very informative
were not here for a long time, just a good time......1980 kz750 ltd h1
1982 honda cm 450e
1982 honda cm 450e
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- pugeyed
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
11 May 2011 18:10
as said keep posting pics, im rebuilding mine as we speak.
everything is well within spec, just need new rings etc.
keep the pics coming!
everything is well within spec, just need new rings etc.
keep the pics coming!
kz750 h3 1982 4cl
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- BERT75
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
11 May 2011 19:59
thank you I will be doing this maybe this fall. depends on if the other project i'm thinking of falls through or not.
83 KZ750 F1-LTD
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- staniel
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
29 May 2011 15:42
I've built it back up now. That thread is here:
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/454183-my-2nd...z750-top-end-buildup
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/454183-my-2nd...z750-top-end-buildup
1983 KZ750 L3 with 4-1 Kerker pipe and pods
1983 KZ750 L3 parts bike
1983 KZ750 L3 parts bike
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- jacksdad
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- 1979 kz 750 OUCH, IT SPARKED
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Re: My 2nd KZ750 top end breakdown
29 May 2011 15:57
please keep the posts coming, love learning about these wonderful machines
1979 kz750 twin cyl.
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