Only running on 2 cylinders

No, No errors in the wiring i did.

Ill go jump it and get back to you

Dylansword wrote:

...was thinking the screws controlled the fuel not air. So ill screw them out.

Side-located adjustment screws regulate amount of air entering the pilot circuit.
The are imo best described as "pilot air adjustment screws."
See image shown below.

A different carb design is where the pilot adjustment screw is underneath the carb toward the engine, which is a pilot mixture screw that turns out for richer and in for leaner.

Good Fortune!

When you checked voltage at the coils, did you have the positive lead of the VOM connected to the positive post of the coil, and the negative lead of the VOM connected to a good clean ground - NOT the negative coil terminal? Opening and closing the points should have no effect on the voltage coming into the coil.

TexasKZ wrote:

When you checked voltage at the coils, did you have the positive lead of the VOM connected to the positive post of the coil, and the negative lead of the VOM connected to a good clean ground - NOT the negative coil terminal? Opening and closing the points should have no effect on the voltage coming into the coil.

I had the positive lead of my VOM on the hot wire at the coils, and the negative lead on the negative post of the battery?

It has accel coils... Does it matter which posts the wires are connected to on the coils?

ok I mentioned this before, do u not have to change /alter coils when going from dyna to points ???
" Before selecting a coil, check the coil primary resistance requirements as specified by the manufacturer of the ignition being used. For breaker points ignitions use 5.0 ohm coils or 3.0 ohm coils with a 1 to 2 ohm ballast resistor in series with the +12 volt supply wire to the coil. Dynatek cannot be responsible for ignition or coil problems that result from using a coil of incorrect primary resistance with a particular ignition system. "

I know this is true in other types of bikes just sayin

dyna-tech can't be responsible for anything, including the junk they sell, like leaving ign on and burning out everything under the tank, or direct shorts off their crappy modules, but I do believe you are right, still wouldn't explain low voltage.

stonemaster wrote:

ok I mentioned this before, do u not have to change /alter coils when going from dyna to points ???
" Before selecting a coil, check the coil primary resistance requirements as specified by the manufacturer of the ignition being used. For breaker points ignitions use 5.0 ohm coils or 3.0 ohm coils with a 1 to 2 ohm ballast resistor in series with the +12 volt supply wire to the coil. Dynatek cannot be responsible for ignition or coil problems that result from using a coil of incorrect primary resistance with a particular ignition system. "

I know this is true in other types of bikes just sayin

Hmmm..... makes me wonder. My bike had Accel coils and points when I bought it. I put the dyna on and kept the 3ohm coils.

Ok, so heres whats going on.

When i pulled the wires that carry power to the coils, they both measure at the proper voltage. When i connect one, and measure it is good, when i connect the other, it is low. The one that is low, is the one with the points open. And when i rotate the engine, it does the same thing on the other side.

So when the points are open, it is dropping the voltage. Why is this??

andy9802gt wrote:

...put the dyna on and kept the 3ohm coils.

Dyna-S with 3 ohm coils is a good combo.

Good Fortune!

I'll post this again for those who have not seen it:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting),
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.


The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

Electrical Connectors, Wire, And supplies
www.easternbeaver.com
www.vintageconnections.com
www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KPEL1
www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
www.electricalconnection.com
www.electricalconnection.com/electrical-components/hitachi.htm
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination&page=1
www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/butt_connectors.htm
www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html
www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-Bullet-...lectrical/Categories
www.surplussales.com/SolderlessTerminals/WireTerminals-3.html
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0



Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.

It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Stumped as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.