Only running on 2 cylinders

Okay, i just checked the voltage. It is about 12.6 at the battery (a little low due to trying to start it) and about 10.3 at both the coils.

O and all the wire is new from the coils to the points, and the hot wires going to the points.

And i am on the same page as everyone with the carbs. I know there good, i have cleaned them many many times.

WOAH!

10.3 at the coils will not get the job done. With 12.6 at the battery, you should not have less than about 12.3 or 12.4 at the coils. MFolks has posted a bunch of times a logical and thorough diagnostic for the electrical system. The factory shop manual should have one, too. The ignition and kill switches, along with the battery to frame ground are often places that develop excessive resistance due to corrosion and loose connections. Get full voltage to the coils before messing with anything else.

okay good we're finally making progress! So where should i check for voltage drop? the kill switch? ignition switch?

Now we're cooking with CRISCO. If wiring is new check all grounds and connections that were made in that circuit first. Make sure the grounds are to unpainted surfaces and that all crimps are good.

Stock wiring should look something like this.

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Dylansword wrote:

...have the adjustment screw's on the carbs about 1/4 turn out from all the way in....

Likely too rich on pilot circuit.
Need to open them up to let in more air.
Would try setting each pilot air adjustment screw 1.5 turns out counter-clockwise from lightly seated.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

Dylansword wrote:

...have the adjustment screw's on the carbs about 1/4 turn out from all the way in....

Likely too rich on pilot circuit.
Need to open them up to let in more air.
Would try setting each pilot air adjustment screw 1.5 turns out counter-clockwise from lightly seated.

See i was thinking the screws controlled the fuek not air. So ill screw them out.

Dylansword wrote:

okay.......

The battery is at correct voltage, its sitting on a battery tender.

There is the same voltage as the battery at the coils.

The spark plugs are firing

****Timing i am unsure on, i am unsure how to get it correct. The book doesnt do a good job explaining it.

The carbs definatly have fuel

And as i said i already checked comp and it was fine.

As for the ignition, i took off the dyna s ignition and put points back on it, The points and condensers are brand new. And i JUST rewired the entire ignition, from the points to the coils.

ok now I'm confused, u say in this post volts same at battery and coils then two post later u say its changed and it 2 lower at coils ??????
blue or orangs spark on plug if blue then ur good
plugs can fire but if timing wrong then no go baby, but first volts to coils 12.6 at battery is ok but which is it at coils ???/

Now for the voltage drop.

I did some testing, and it only drops when the points are open. Is this normal?

I tested at the kill switch and it was good on one side but when i turned it on, it dropped to about 10.3. So then i tested at coils, and it was 10.3. So i pulled off the hot wires. and then it was fine.

I then found out that when the points are open, the voltage on that side drops.

*** Is this right? Or is something wrong there?

Quoting:
As for the ignition, i took off the dyna s ignition and put points back on it, The points and condensers are brand new. And i JUST rewired the entire ignition, from the points to the coils.

Could you have made an err here in the wiring?:huh:

Here's a quick test, jump battery voltage straight to the coils (a la whoever's coil wiring mod). We're just doing this for testing, but if it works, you know that the voltage drop is the problem.

10v isn't enough for the coils though, they need full (within .2v) battery voltage. Somewhere along the line you've got a bad connection. Trace all your wires, one connection at a time. Work your way from the battery to the coil. Where it drops is where the problem is!

Good luck!