Exhaust Gasket Torque Needed ASAP.

I just finished changing the copper gaskets for the exhaust, and I am wondering how tight or how much torque I need to use on the nuts that go onto the studs?

Any answers ASAP would be greatly appreciated. I used some Permatex to hold the gaskets in place was I was repositioning the exhaust, I think that is going to take about an hour and half to set, so I need to make adjustmetns quick if I am going to make adjustments at all.

Right now they are firm with a socket. I didn't torque them a lot when putting them on as I didn't want to risk breaking the stud, but...

I am not sure how much torque it takes to crush the copper ring? At least I am assuming I want to crush the copper ring??

fire it up and see...or loosen the rear hanger bolts and wiggle the pipes and then see if the nuts feel looser...

if on starting the bike you don't hear ticking your good...after a ride or two...check the nuts again as things usually seat a tad more..decent hand tight wont bust a stud...do the threads seem to be poking out about the same ...that can be a tip off to a wedged ring or not sitting right half collar.....i'm sure someone hear has torqued em but i never have and always just re-tighten a tad while the bike is cold if needed after riding it once...you can tighten them while warm but be careful i think....you should be okay...fire it up and listen...ticky pap tickity pop and you got it wrong...

Thanks for the reply. I won't be able to fire it up for a few more hours, but I will follow the steps you said.

A small amount of thread is showing after each nut.

I am just going to pretend the Permetex isn't there, and that it will cause me no problems if I need to tighten them more.

"small"amount of threads is fine and normal...look for any that look to show more or less threads than all the other nuts, and maybe ,if your hear noise??? later,,,,,,, see if that area is the culprit...you should be fine....

crazy homeless guy wrote:

I just finished changing the copper gaskets for the exhaust, and I am wondering how tight or how much torque I need to use on the nuts that go onto the studs?

Any answers ASAP would be greatly appreciated. I used some Permatex to hold the gaskets in place was I was repositioning the exhaust, I think that is going to take about an hour and half to set, so I need to make adjustmetns quick if I am going to make adjustments at all.

Right now they are firm with a socket. I didn't torque them a lot when putting them on as I didn't want to risk breaking the stud, but...

I am not sure how much torque it takes to crush the copper ring? At least I am assuming I want to crush the copper ring??

Just "snug" is tight enough.

For example, FSM for '77~'79 KZ1000 says less than 43 in-lbs. Note inch-lbs.

Check tightness occasionally (best when engine is cold) to assure none have loosened.
Barely loose might not be audible, but allow exhaust goo to escape and appear on cylinder fins (sometimes misdiagnosed as an oil leak from some other source).
When exhaust valve stem seals are worn, oil may escape past loose fitment (with or without any tell-tale noise), then run down the fins onto the alternator or points cover, and blow onto pants leg. :pinch:

Good Fortune!

crazy homeless guy wrote:

I just finished changing the copper gaskets for the exhaust, and I am wondering how tight or how much torque I need to use on the nuts that go onto the studs?

Any answers ASAP would be greatly appreciated. I used some Permatex to hold the gaskets in place was I was repositioning the exhaust, I think that is going to take about an hour and half to set, so I need to make adjustmetns quick if I am going to make adjustments at all.

Right now they are firm with a socket. I didn't torque them a lot when putting them on as I didn't want to risk breaking the stud, but...

I am not sure how much torque it takes to crush the copper ring? At least I am assuming I want to crush the copper ring??

I grip the socket wrench in the palm of my hand with the socket extension bar coming out between the middle two fingers (to take away the leverage) and go by feel. Go back and forth between the nuts. Honestly, you don't have to crank them, just enough to make sure they don't leak and get them equally tight.