1982 KZ1000 K2*********NO START CONDITION*********

If i were you, i would go back to stock on the jetting and air intake. Get the airbox, install it and rejett to 122.5
i did this to my bike and it came with pods. now it runs like a beast. I think it will run great with the 4 into 1. My 81 KZ1000 does wide open with stock jetting.. check for vacuum leaks in the carb area by spraying carb cleaner on the boots and everything else. If the RPMs go up, then you have a leak. Set your adjustment screws to 2 and a half (thats where mine is) check your compression. 150psi is ideal but it can go as low as 90psi and still start and run. Check spark and all the simple stuff too. make sure you get an airfilter for that box too. You will fight that bike to the death without an airfilter installed. isthere a rattling sound on the left side of the bike when running? if so the starter clutch is loose. if not, i would still open up that left side engine cover on the center stand so the oil doesnt leak out and just clean the hell out of everyhting. make sure the bearring in between the crank and the primary drive gear is in good shape too. If its not, it could be causing friction in between the crank and the drive gear and damaging things. Make damn sure is all im saying. Everything i just explained should get you bike up and running if everything is ok.

Good luck man.

good luck man.

I used conventional oil, Valvoline 10W-40.

Best Oils To Use In Your Bike (Just My Opinion)

Engine oil : The commercial grade oils are clearly superior to the mass market oils. For the best protection in your bike or car, use Shell Rotella Synthetic, available at Wal-Mart in blue containers . For the best petroleum oil you can buy, get Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, or Chevron Delo 400, available at any auto parts store. On the back of most oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. All XXw-20 and XXw-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. Don't buy any oil additives like STP or Slick-50. Here's several listings on all about oil justifying these conclusions.

The Recommended Synthetic Oils :

Shell Rotella Synthetic
5w-40 Delvac 1 Synthetic
5w-40 Mobil-1 SUV/Truck Synthetic
5w-40 AMSOil AMF Synthetic (pricey, but it’s your money)
10w-40 Golden Spectro Synthetic
10w-50 Motul 5100 Synthetic
10w-40 Mobil-1 Synthetic
15w-50 Mobil-1 MX4T Synthetic

The best synthetics are: (in no particular order)

Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container, not white), gallon at Wal-Mart.
Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40 (grey container, not black), gallon at Petro stations, gallon at Farm and Fleet.
Mobil-1 SUV 5w-40, qt anywhere.
AMSOil AMF 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. (again, pricey)
Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).
Motul 5100 Ester, (no price).

Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.

For temperatures below -40, I strongly recommend either Mobil-1 0w-30 or the Canadian Shell 0w-40 Rotella. At these temperatures, your car is your life. Using cheap or incorrect oil is risking your life.

For temperatures below -55c, -65f, stay home. Really.

The Recommended Petroleum Oils

Chevron Delo 400 15w-40
Delvac 1300 15w-40
Shell Rotella 15w-40
Castrol 15w-40

The best petroleum oils are: (in no particular order)

Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 (blue container) gallon at any auto parts store, gallons at Costco.

Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 (black container) gallon at any auto parts store, gallons at Sam's Club.

Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 (white container) gallon at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store, gallons at Sam's Club.

Castrol 15w-40 (Green container) gallon at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store, gallons at Sam’s club.

If you live in another country, you'll have to do a bit of research to decide on an oil. Generally, any oil certified for use in a late model Volks wagon or Mercedes turbo diesel is a good choice. Another good idea is to go to a truck stop and ask the truckers about brands. Rotella is marketed all over the world, but in other countries it's called Rotella or Rimola or Helix Ultra, and the formulation may be a bit different, depending on local climate and preferences. It will likely also be a lot more expensive than it is here.

PROTECTING THE 3 CRUCIAL ZONES OF YOUR ENGINE BY CASTROL
Castrol Trizone technologyâ„¢ represents the 21st century approach to 4T motorcycle oils. Castrol 4T oils developed with Trizone technologyâ„¢ offers the protection needed to get the most out of your motorcycle.

The 4T motorcycle engine, unlike the car engine, has a very compact oil system, where the engine, clutch and gear zones are combined and use the same oil. In a car engine, the three zones are separated, with the engine and gearbox using specific oils. The ideal 4T motorcycle oil has to meet the very different requirements in all three zones of the bike: engine, clutch and gears.

A CHANGING ENVIRONMENT
Europe is one of the most demanding motorcycle markets in the world: European riders demand performance, quality and versatility from their machines. Operating conditions vary from near desert heat in the south to sub arctic cold in the far north, from coastal plains to high mountain passes, from stop start city traffic to wide open motorways. Noise, gaseous emissions, consumer demands and safety to name a few have all had effects on motorcycle design. Increasingly, it’s the four-stroke engine that powers big bikes, with the two-stroke confined to use in small scooters, off road and competition. Today’s high-precision, high performance four-stroke motorcycle engine provides many challenges for its engine oil.

Motorcycle engines produce a lot of power for their weight. Part of the secret lies in high engine
speeds: a truck engine produces peak power at about two and a half thousand RPM and a car
engine at around six thousand RPM. Modern four-stroke motorcycle engines can rev up to 15
thousand RPM or more.

The circulating oil comes under huge thermal stress as it transfers heat away from low mass components under high power conditions. High piston speeds and power output generate very high temperatures - with few places for that heat to go. The oil plays a crucial cooling role – which demands oils with exceptional high thermal stability. But there are many other challenges that a lubricant must face:

Poor quality oil can vaporise leading to a rapid rise in oil consumption - and a fall in protection.

Compact multicylinder multivalve engines use complex oil circuitry with narrow oilways - the oil needs to be fluid enough to keep flowing under all conditions.

Deposits can build up on the pistons and rings - the oil needs to keep these clean. All the while, the oil is carrying combustion by products and wear metals into the sump and filter.
Compared with truck or car engines, motorcycle engines are much smaller and lighter. Most four-stroke motorcycle engines and the lubrication systems are combined so that all these zones rely on the same oil: one oil to do three different but equally important jobs - to protect the engine, gearbox and clutch.

INTRODUCTIONENGINECLUTCHGEARBOX
Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, but they share some of the same lubrication requirements. So yes, in many cases, a premium heavy-duty universal oil capable of serving both diesel and gasoline engines is the best choice for your bike.

The high power-to-displacement ratio of a motorcycle engine means rod and main bearings are subjected to loads that are not normally found in passenger car engines. The valve train is also highly loaded, and requires extreme pressure boundary lubrication. The same can be said about gears in the transmission, which are normally lubricated by engine oil. Oil additives containing phosphorus protect these highly loaded extreme pressure areas (in both gasoline and diesel engines). Because diesel engines have higher loading of components, more of the phosphorus-containing additive is present than in typical passenger car oils. And with advanced catalyst systems for gasoline engines, the phosphorus content has been declining in passenger car oils.

Since many motorcycle engines are air-cooled, and tend to be operated at high power outputs and speeds, their lubricating oil needs to be more resistant to high temperature oxidation. That’s another advantage of a premium universal oil. Another thing you want in your motorcycle is oil that has excellent viscosity control, so that with use it retains high temperature viscosity. Some multiviscosity grade passenger car oils, subjected to extreme loads, can quickly thin out. Their viscosity can drop to the next lower grade.

One last thing to consider is whether oil contains friction modifier additives. For improved fuel economy, most passenger car oils have such an additive. But the wet clutch in your bike doesn’t perform right with friction modifiers. Universal engine oils don’t have friction modifiers.

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 PLUS for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge.

Kitten Tooth wrote:

If i were you, i would go back to stock on the jetting and air intake. Get the airbox, install it and rejett to 122.5
i did this to my bike and it came with pods. now it runs like a beast. I think it will run great with the 4 into 1. My 81 KZ1000 does wide open with stock jetting.. check for vacuum leaks in the carb area by spraying carb cleaner on the boots and everything else. If the RPMs go up, then you have a leak. Set your adjustment screws to 2 and a half (thats where mine is) check your compression. 150psi is ideal but it can go as low as 90psi and still start and run. Check spark and all the simple stuff too. make sure you get an airfilter for that box too. You will fight that bike to the death without an airfilter installed. isthere a rattling sound on the left side of the bike when running? if so the starter clutch is loose. if not, i would still open up that left side engine cover on the center stand so the oil doesnt leak out and just clean the hell out of everyhting. make sure the bearring in between the crank and the primary drive gear is in good shape too. If its not, it could be causing friction in between the crank and the drive gear and damaging things. Make damn sure is all im saying. Everything i just explained should get you bike up and running if everything is ok.

Good luck man.

good luck man.

:blink: Wha...? :laugh:

So I found out something interesting. After jumping the bike off from my truck I found the bike does turn over somewhat better yet it still wouldn't light off. After removing the pod filters I sprayed some B-12 Chemtool directly into the bores and the bike fired off almost immediately. I'm now thinking that even though the slipping with the starter situation is definitely a problem, it's not the main reason for the no-start condition. My thinking is the motor isn't getting enough fuel. So maybe it's time for some new carb internals. Even though I've cleaned the carbs numerous times and reset the float height, I'm thinking of ordering a float set, float needles and seats, as well as air mixture screws to complement the pilot and main jets i've already installed. With these new parts I should see an improvement, yes?

u have said nothing about the condition of the tank,and petcock.If the bike was sitting up,did u drain the tank and install fresh fuel?Did u pull the petcock out and ensure the filter was clean?Do u have an inline filter between petcock and carbs? All the carb work in the world wont help if ur fuel supply is dirty.Does the petcock work as it should?If u turn the petcock to PRI and open the drain screw at the bottom of the carb bowls,does fuel run out? What is ur starting procedure--petcock on PRI,choke all the way out, no toucha the throttle,switch on and hit the starter button?If u crack the throttle,bike is guaranteed to flood.Sorry if I have overstated the obvious,but sometimes we run around looking for big issues when the little ones are overlooked.Best of luck.bj

I drained the tank and installed fresh gas when I purchased the bike. The inside is clean with no visible rust. Since it looked clean and the petcock functioned correctly I have never removed it. I'll pull the petcock tomorrow and check the filter. Also, I have already installed an in line filter. The service fuel level in the 1 and 4 carbureators are correct as well (I set the float height on all but I can only check those two carbs cause the drain screws on the other two are stripped)

Okay, update: I checked the fuel filter inside the tank and all seems well. The filter is clean and intact. I have now replaced all internal components inside the carbs except for the needle jets and air screws(which I have come to figure out has no springs). I have also done wired george's coil mod just to rule out any ignition problems. I am able to start and ride the bike now but I have to use another battery to jump it off. Once warm, she starts and runs like a champ! I believe my battery is toast at this point but there is still the issue of the starter not completely turning over even when another battery is used to jump it off. I have tore into the starter and all internals check out. I think my next step is to buy another used starter off ebay and see if this alleviates my problem. The bike is just too hard to start when cold....I think i still need more revolutions on the motor??? Please help!?!?