1982 KZ1000 K2*********NO START CONDITION*********

About six months ago I purchased a 1982 KZ1000 K2 model. The bike was running when I bought it but the choke had to be pulled out all the way for it to stay running. Having owned about a dozen bikes or so in the past I was confident in my ability to have her purring like a kitten in no time. Once i got the bike home the first thing I did was tear into the carbs. Upon inspection they weren't as bad as anticipated but I did notice some damage on the tips needle jets(where they exit into the carb bore), and part of the pilot jet housing on the #4 carb was broken off. Also, the springs for the air mixture screws were missing. Ever since I brought the bike home it has been extremely difficult to start....if at all. Here is a list of all the things I have done in my futile attempts to make her run:
-new valve shims
-new battery
-new pilot and main jets(40/140-with pods and 4 into 1 exhaust)
-new intake boots
-new battery cables
I have also checked and cleaned all electrical connections, coils check out ok and are receiving a proper 12 volts, compression check revealed 125-145psi on all cylinders. I have had the bike running only a handful of times but the battery usually gives out before I can get it started. One concern I have is the motor isn't turning over quite as much as I would like while starting. If I hold the starter switch the motor turns over about a quarter of a revolution, pauses, another quarter, pauses and continues in this manner...eventually running the battery down. At first I thought the starter clutch was slipping but there is an excessively loud whine perhaps coming from the starter itself, making me think the starter is in need of a rebuild. Could this be what's making it hard to start? Are the pods the problem? Perhaps I need rebuild kits for the carbs? I am running out of ideas and am desperate for some guidance.....PLEASE HELP?!?!

If it were me, I'd pull the starter motor and inspect the brushes. I believe a 4 brush set up is used on your bike.

Download this shop manual:
www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99

Starter Motor Rebuild Kits
www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm
www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if website is viable)
www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

Thanks for the quick reply MFolks! I've been putting this off for awhile now, I guess I've been dreading the inevitable $40 rebuild kit. Oh well, you gotta pay to play right! I'll get on it first thing in the morning.

You might have to remove the alternator cover,left foot peg assembly, shifter lever and tilt the bike to the right to minimize oil loss.

Having an alternator gasket on hand is a good idea as they sometimes tear on removal. I use a sharpened piece of lexan or Plexiglass to scrape any old gasket left on the engine or covers as they will not damage the soft aluminum pieces.

If you need new needles I can mail you my old ones. They are from a Canadian bike so they are adjustable.

bowtie6686 wrote:

Are the pods the problem?

If there are pods on the bike but the jetting is stock you will likely have to run with the choke all the way out to keep it going. What are the jet sizes?

EDIT: I see you did use 40/140 jets, what are your mixture screws at? After rejetting I have mine at (I think) 3.75 turns (I think....)

I've tried many different settings for the mixture screws, still, no change. I believe they are currently at 3 turns out. I pulled the starter out yesterday and ran all tests indicated by the KZ shop manual and all the internal components checked out fine. After a good cleaning I reinstalled the starter and there wasn't any change. I talked to the owner of a local starter shop and he said whatever the cause, the starter isn't getting enough amperage. I have seen numerous posts on this forum with people citing the same problem. Many have replaced their starter only to have the same problems so I don't think it's the actual starter. I know the most obvious thing would be to check the cables connectivity but I've already installed all new cables and cleaned the connections multiple times. Perhaps the starter isn't making a good ground connection where it mounts to the motor? I think my next step is to bypass the starter solenoid altogether and see if it makes any difference. Would it be possible to jump start the bike from my truck, just to get a little extra cranking amps, or would this damage my electrical system? Oh how i miss kick starters......

You can jump from a car or truck battery, just make sure the engine of the vehicle is not running as voltage/current fluctuations can damage bike electrical systems.

Ensure the connections of the jump cables are correct:
RED to RED (+ to +)
BLACK to BLACK (- to -)

If the bike cranks good and starts, think about using larger battery cables and the ones going to the starter motor. 6 gauge welding cable comes in two colors(Black and Red), take your old cables to the welding supply stores or have careful measurments for new cables.

If the welding store can't put new terminal ends on the cables, try the battery stores as some have dedicated machines to squeeze/swage the terminal ends.

I will try that this afternoon but before I get started I think I should be clearer on my explanation of "slow cranking". Under no load the starter spins fine without any indication of failure. But when installed and viewing the timing advancer from the right side of the bike, the motor might turn over once while holding the starter switch for a duration of 5 seconds. More specifically, while holding down the starter button, the engine will rotate approximately a quarter turn(if that) every 3 seconds or so. If I bump the starter switch it seems to help but not by much. The starter itself isn't turning slowly, just the motor. It seems to me that something is slipping, I just can't figure out what. This is why I thought it was the starter clutch at first. With the alternator cover removed, the clutch engages fine while turning by hand. Perhaps it is slipping, just not noticeable until turned by the more powerful starter? Could the starter be slipping internally?

Use a known good battery/car battery for testing.

Starter can be easily removed from bike and then tested at a electrical motor rebuilder with the correct equipment.

TeK9iNe wrote:

Use a known good battery/car battery for testing....

For that one person on the planet that maybe doesn't know ---

If jumping from a battery in another vehicle, be sure the vehicle's engine is NOT running.

Good Fortune!

What grade/type of engine oil is used? Some if not all car oils contain a friction modifier that may be causing your starter clutch to slip.