#1 cylinder not getting hot

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wargoth wrote:

Once again, lets jump to conclusions and look at the hard stuff first...

I didn't see anyone jump to conclusions, I saw a few well versed people who know a bit of what they speak, that actually READ what the original posted said. It would be obvious to anyone with any mechanical skills or half a brain that if the plug is dry there is no fuel. Also, the likelihood of a plug wire going bad is very slim at best so the obvious easy answer is fuel.

How would carbs out of sync cause the cylinder to not get fuel? How would valve lash cause the cylinder to not get fuel?

A non-sealing exhaust valve, for example, may impair the cylinder's ability to suck in fuel mixture from the carb during the intake stroke.

While not the most likely culprit in this instance, would verify acceptable compression and valve clearances being within specs before ruling out everything except a carb issue.

This also presupposes a good properly timed spark, which imo should further be assured before addressing the carb.

Even perfect carbs can't compensate for a weak or improperly timed spark, or inadequate compression due to incorrect valve clearances or whatever reason.

All that said, imo the dry plug in this case most likely results from a carb issue (related to fuel supply and/or pilot circuit).

Good Fortune!

well, went ahead and checked for gas getting to carbs, #1 carb plenty of gas out of float bowl drain, but very dirty. looks like inside of gas tank needs good cleaning along with carbs. could not get drain screws to turn on #2/#3/#4 any ideas how to loosen drain screws? sprayed with wd40 will try again tomorrow. also what will clean inside of gas tank? somebody said to try little bit of gas with small washers/nuts and shake for a bit then drain. flush with clean gas. will order carb rebuild kits as well. anybody ever buy parts from BABBITTS any good?



thanx jim

81kzjim wrote:

well, went ahead and checked for gas getting to carbs, #1 carb plenty of gas out of float bowl drain, but very dirty. looks like inside of gas tank needs good cleaning along with carbs. could not get drain screws to turn on #2/#3/#4 any ideas how to loosen drain screws? sprayed with wd40 will try again tomorrow. also what will clean inside of gas tank? somebody said to try little bit of gas with small washers/nuts and shake for a bit then drain. flush with clean gas. will order carb rebuild kits as well. anybody ever buy parts from BABBITTS any good?



thanx jim

Impact driver is handy tool for loosening stubborn fasteners, etc.



Fuel tank cleaning tutorial,
Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_content...view&id=22&Itemid=11

Best parts source,
Click > www.z1enterprises.com/

Good Fortune!

81kzjim wrote:
"... also what will clean inside of gas tank? somebody said to try little bit of gas with small washers/nuts and shake for a bit then drain. flush with clean gas..."


Rust Removal

Good idea to install in-line fuel filter right after a carb clean, regardless of the state of the gas tank. They are inexpensive and with no moving parts and ability to see the gas being present, they are a win -- saves you the trouble of having to yank and re-clean a bank of carbs that you had just finished cleaning only to have that cleaning session spoiled by gas tank junk.

81kzjim wrote:

....will order carb rebuild kits as well. anybody ever buy parts from BABBITTS any good?...

A few folks haven't been very pleased w them. FYI: in their parts diagrams they list a price for everything, but they do not have & cannot get a lot of that stuff. They'll take your money, send an incomplete order of whatever they happen to have, then let you know about the unavailable parts later... kinda deceptive.

Z1Enterprises.com is a good place to get stuff for the bike & the customer service is great. I don't know if they (or anyone) have rebuild kits for the 81 CSR. You could buy the gaskets & starter plunger caps, and get a metric o-ring kit from HarborFreight or somewhere (nitrile or viton rubber). And see if Z1 can get the starter plunger o-rings - not sure if Kawasaki still lists them as Active (Z1 can get dealer parts).

Or to save trouble finding the o-rings, CycleOrings.com is operated by a guy who sells kits that have the correct size o-rings. The HF/etc metric kits don't have exactly the same size as stock, but they'll work.

Patton wrote:

[

Impact driver is handy tool for loosening stubborn fasteners, etc.



Fuel tank cleaning tutorial,
Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_content...view&id=22&Itemid=11

Best parts source,
Click > www.z1enterprises.com/

Good Fortune! [/quote]

your not seriously telling him to use an impact driver on carb drain screws are you? :blink:

81kzjim wrote:

...could not get drain screws to turn on #2/#3/#4 any ideas how to loosen drain screws? sprayed with wd40 will try again tomorrow....

Patton wrote:

...blah blah blah...impact driver...blah blah blah....

kawsakiman wrote:

...your not seriously telling him to use an impact driver on carb drain screws are you? :blink:

Would not invite Godzilla to do it. :pinch:
But would resort to a delicate subdued application as opposed to otherwise damaging slot in the screw head which could necessitate drilling out and replacing the screw.
Not talking sledge hammer force against float bowl here.:lol:

But am maybe overlooking some other option where correct size screw driver won't loosen the screw when twisted to the point of damaging the slot. For instance a judicious application of heat (not open flame), or perhaps apply some dry ice to the screw head before attempting to remove?

What other alternatives might be recommended before gentle persuasion with an impact driver?

And BTW, would apply PBBlaster or Kroil or 50-50 Acetone/ATF instead of WD40, although WD40 might help a little.
Edit -- or Liquid Wrench as later noted by JMKZHI, which I had forgotten about.

Good Fortune!

thanx for the idea i have impact driver,also thanx for fuel tank tutorial,parts will look into

jim.

Patton wrote:
...some other option where correct size screw driver won't loosen the screw when twisted to the point of damaging the slot...

I think you have hit on the issue here. I seriously doubt that the correct size screwdriver is being used; otherwise the screw will come out. It takes a very large screwdriver to fill the slot in the drain screws, but such a screwdriver will loosen the screws because of the high torque it can apply. Ed