think i found an exhaust leak...

So i went outside to start my motorcycle for the day.. I do at least one time everyday and i let it run for a minute or so if im not going to be going for any rides. Anyway, i figured maybe i would try and find out where the ticking was coming from. It sounded lower than where the cams and valves are. Almost by where the mechanical ignition advancer is.. But, after a bit of warming up, the tick gets noisier and easier to find the source. Its coming from the head so i figure they must need to be re-shimmed. But, thats not what this thread is about. I was on the right side of my bike doing a bit of revving to hear how things sounded and i felt a huge gust of air hit my leg everytime i revved the bike. I lie down on my side to take a look at the underside of the bike and at the bottom of the exhaust. I found that the tube that goes across from the left side pipe the the right side pipe and clamps together in the middle was completely broke off of the right side pipe coming from cylinders 3 and 4. So, i found why the exhaust is popping so badly. My carburetors are fine i think so i bet that wide open pipe is causing all of the popping. I got to thinking alittle bit and i made the connection that since that right side exhaust pipe is wide open after cylinder 3's pipe converges with cylinder 4's maybe a really bad exhaust leak could be causing the ticking on the right side of the motor? im really not sure but if so, a few zaps with the arc welder and i think ill be on my way:) could this cause a tick in the vavles though?

Thanks guys,
KT

Exhaust leaks themselves can often sound very similar to valve train noise, especially if the leak is between the exhaust port and the header pipe. Maybe your damaged pipes have jiggled around enough to have loosened at the exhaust ports, or the exhaust o-rings have been slightly pulverized.

Kitten Tooth wrote:
[quote...went outside to start my motorcycle for the day.. I do at least one time everyday and i let it run for a minute or so if im not going to be going for any rides....[/quote]

Perhaps differing opinions about this, but thinking should allow engine to attain full operating temperature before shutting it down.

Imo, probably does more harm than good to run engine momentarily without allowing it to warm up.

Where manual petcock is fitted, would turn petcock OFF and allow bike to run until engine stops on its own as float bowl empties.

For me it's habit to turn off the manual petcock a short distance from home port and allow float bowls to empty before parking the bike for over-night or longer.

Good Fortune!

mine only has prime, reserve, and on.. this winter i plan on just running the bowls dry after half a can of seafoam.. and leave some gas in the tank...

Kitten Tooth wrote:

mine only has prime, reserve, and on.. this winter i plan on just running the bowls dry after half a can of seafoam.. and leave some gas in the tank...

Would also add some fuel stabilizer and store with tank near full.

Another option is storing tank empty, and if so, coating inside with a thin oil film to inhibit rust.

Good Fortune!

I think ill just do the full of gas option. you see, me and my dad did this "electrolidic process" where like you take a piece of metal like the thredded poles that you can get at menards and you stick it in the tank after filling the tank with bakingsoda and water. You make sure that the electrode is not touching the tank itself. Negative to the tank, positive to the electrode and it will actually eat the rust and debris from the inside of the tank and pull it to the electrode. I just used a 12 volt battery charger. But, if the tank is left without any gas or sealing substance of any kind, it will begin to rust on the inside again. I think maybe ill just get it lined with that radiator sealant or whatever that people use to seal the inside.. is it not good to start the bike? I thought a minute would be enough to warm it up and i would be out of the dangerous zone as far as it not being good for my bike.

Thanks guys,
KT

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OK guys!!!! i just did something and i dont know if its good or not.. My bike is extremely loud now. We'll put it that way. Like so loud thats its almost not fun to ride because it hurts your ears. its very throaty. That pipe that i was talking about that crosses over from both exhaust systems was broke off from both sides the who time and it was pinched in by the exhausts. i grabbed it with my hand when the bike was cold and popped it out of there. I started my bike and now its like sombody hooked it up to a VS65R marshall with the sound turned all the way up!!! I have two concerns though. First off, is that hole close enough for cold air to warp my valves? I'm just wondering if i should lengthen them up or not. Secondly, the "huge ass pop" that i explained in one of my previous threads is not VERY EFFING LOUD and its just like a backfire but not quite. Am i damaging my bike if i run it like this?? i started it and let it run for five minutes or so and then shut it off when my ears started bleeding:D when i jump down on the throttle now, it kind of sputters just a tiny little bit and then it takes off. Could have been that it was just cold but im not sure. Also, my idle went up about 200-250 RPM from where i had it set before at 1000RPM acording to the tach. PLEASE, let me know whats up and if im doing my bike harm, just tell me.

Thanks guys,
KT

It does the loud pop after i rev it up to about 6000RPM and let it drop back down while the bike is sitting there idling.

Kitten Tooth wrote:

...pipe that i was talking about that crosses over from both exhaust systems was broke off from both sides the who time and it was pinched in by the exhausts. i grabbed it with my hand when the bike was cold and popped it out of there....

Is deterioration limited to the cross-over pipe?

Where is the deterioration, and to what extent?

Good Fortune!

The blue and Green circles are completely rusted off the pipe. Welds and all like it came off kinda clean but really jagged. The pipe in the red circle is all there with the rusted off bits still clamed in. The little bit in the green circle came off pretty rough. The pipe itself is still solid but theres a big hole there now.

Earlier KZ large fours performed just fine without a cross over pipe.

It's an awkward area to seal, but thinking an automotive style muffler patch may suffice (and be mostly unnoticeable where located).

Good Fortune!