Clutch Adjustment

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09 Oct 2010 20:38 #405587 by gremlin497
Clutch Adjustment was created by gremlin497
Got bike runn got, but I am having problem adjusting clutch. The problem is that when I go to 1st gear from stand still, the bike lurchs forward and dies. I have adjusted at the lock nut/adjuster on handle bar, and the slack nut in the middle of the cable. Please help, so I can ride tomorrow. Bike is 77A1 1000.

1977 KZ 1075 (FBG), 29 Smoothbores V&H Mega

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09 Oct 2010 20:46 #405591 by TexasKZ
Replied by TexasKZ on topic Clutch Adjustment
If it is like that later 1000s, clutch adjustment must begin behind the cover on the side of the engine, then the mid-cable adjuster, then last the adjuster at the lever. There are some threads in the forum about this and it is well covered in the shop manual.

1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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09 Oct 2010 20:52 #405592 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic Clutch Adjustment
Follow the procedure in the manual and the clutch should work fine. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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09 Oct 2010 23:30 #405611 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Clutch Adjustment
This covers the procedure on replacing the clutch cable, so print it out and keep handy:

Clutch Cable Replacement On some Kawasaki Motorcycles

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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10 Oct 2010 16:20 #405762 by gremlin497
Replied by gremlin497 on topic Clutch Adjustment
Thx to all the helped me with the clutch issue> I have it close to where it needs to be and I think I have that issue solved. As soon as I figue out how to post pic, I will so you can see what I have been working on and my daily rider.

1977 KZ 1075 (FBG), 29 Smoothbores V&H Mega

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