Engine oil, brake fluid

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22 Sep 2010 22:10 #401085 by 83kaw550
Engine oil, brake fluid was created by 83kaw550
My first week here and with my new(to me) KZ550M1 LTD shafty with 13,314 miles. Was wondering what type of oil I should be using, brake fluid and gear oil for the rear end? I am currently shopping around for a decent manual and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks for your help, I'm excited to be here!
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22 Sep 2010 22:19 #401089 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Best Oils To Use In Your Bike (Just My Opinion)

Engine oil : The commercial grade oils are clearly superior to the mass market oils. For the best protection in your bike or car, use Shell Rotella Synthetic, available at Wal-Mart in blue containers . For the best petroleum oil you can buy, get Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, or Chevron Delo 400, available at any auto parts store. On the back of most oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. All XXw-20 and XXw-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. Don't buy any oil additives like STP or Slick-50. Here's several listings on all about oil justifying these conclusions.

The Recommended Synthetic Oils :

Shell Rotella Synthetic
5w-40 Delvac 1 Synthetic
5w-40 Mobil-1 SUV/Truck Synthetic
5w-40 AMSOil AMF Synthetic (pricey, but it’s your money)
10w-40 Golden Spectro Synthetic
10w-50 Motul 5100 Synthetic
10w-40 Mobil-1 Synthetic
15w-50 Mobil-1 MX4T Synthetic

The best synthetics are: (in no particular order)

Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container, not white), gallon at Wal-Mart.
Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40 (grey container, not black), gallon at Petro stations, gallon at Farm and Fleet.
Mobil-1 SUV 5w-40, qt anywhere.
AMSOil AMF 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. (again, pricey)
Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).
Motul 5100 Ester, (no price).

Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.

For temperatures below -40, I strongly recommend either Mobil-1 0w-30 or the Canadian Shell 0w-40 Rotella. At these temperatures, your car is your life. Using cheap or incorrect oil is risking your life.

For temperatures below -55c, -65f, stay home. Really.

The Recommended Petroleum Oils

Chevron Delo 400 15w-40
Delvac 1300 15w-40
Shell Rotella 15w-40

The best petroleum oils are: (in no particular order)

Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 (blue container) gallon at any auto parts store, gallons at Costco.

Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 (black container) gallon at any auto parts store, gallons at Sam's Club.

Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 (white container) gallon at Wall-Mart or any auto parts store, gallons at Sam's Club.

If you live in another country, you'll have to do a bit of research to decide on an oil. Generally, any oil certified for use in a late model Volks wagon or Mercedes turbo diesel is a good choice. Another good idea is to go to a truck stop and ask the truckers about brands. Rotella is marketed all over the world, but in other countries it's called Rotella or Rimola or Helix Ultra, and the formulation may be a bit different, depending on local climate and preferences. It will likely also be a lot more expensive than it is here.


Re: Castrol GTX question.
Rotella dyno and synthetic multigrade oils carry the JASO spec. From the Shell web site:


Can heavy-duty diesel oil be used in motorcycles?

Motorcycle gasoline engines may not seem in the same league as the big displacement diesel engine under your hood, but they share some of the same lubrication requirements. So yes, in many cases, a premium heavy-duty universal oil capable of serving both diesel and gasoline engines is the best choice for your bike.

The high power-to-displacement ratio of a motorcycle engine means rod and main bearings are subjected to loads that are not normally found in passenger car engines. The valve train is also highly loaded, and requires extreme pressure boundary lubrication. The same can be said about gears in the transmission, which are normally lubricated by engine oil. Oil additives containing phosphorus protect these highly loaded extreme pressure areas (in both gasoline and diesel engines). Because diesel engines have higher loading of components, more of the phosphorus-containing additive is present than in typical passenger car oils. And with advanced catalyst systems for gasoline engines, the phosphorus content has been declining in passenger car oils.

Since many bike engines are air-cooled, and tend to be operated at high power outputs and speeds, their lubricating oil needs to be more resistant to high temperature oxidation. That’s another advantage of a premium universal oil. Another thing you want in your motorcycle is oil that has excellent viscosity control, so that with use it retains high temperature viscosity. Some multiviscosity grade passenger car oils, subjected to extreme loads, can quickly thin out. Their viscosity can drop to the next lower grade.

One last thing to consider is whether oil contains friction modifier additives. For improved fuel economy, most passenger car oils have such an additive. But the wet clutch in your bike doesn’t perform right with friction modifiers. Universal engine oils don’t have friction modifiers.

Be careful choosing diesel oils. Not all of them are universal. In addition to the API Service Category CI-4 PLUS for diesels, look for API Service Category SL.

Premium universal oils like Shell ROTELLA T Multigrade are formulated for heavy-duty performance, and your bike engine has some heavy-duty challenges for oil. For optimum performance, be sure your oil is up to the challenge.



For manuals, I use two sources:

1. www.repairmanual.com (they sometimes sell used manuals)

2. www.manualsnmore.com

And there's always E-Bay.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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22 Sep 2010 22:35 #401091 by 83kaw550
Replied by 83kaw550 on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Thanks a bunch Mfolks!

That's a big help. I really have no idea when it comes to bikes, particuarily these which are air-cooled. How about Brake fluid and fuel?

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22 Sep 2010 22:52 #401096 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Fuel, I'd use 85 octane with a can of either Seafoam or Berryman's B-12 added at least twice a month. Try to stay away from the E-10 and E-85 gas/alcohol mixes as it's rough on the carb rubber pieces likehoses,diaphrams, and tank petcocks(the gas tank's fuel off/on valve).

As for brake fluids,my shop manual for my 1982 GPz1100 B2 lists D.O.T. 3 but I'd imagine that D.O.T. 4 could be used.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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22 Sep 2010 23:19 #401099 by 83kaw550
Replied by 83kaw550 on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Great, thanks again.

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22 Sep 2010 23:35 #401100 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Idf your bike has the original brake lines(and it looks like it does), at the next chance you have, replace them.

The sunlight and ozone degrade the rubber in the lines just like it does on the tires.Motorcycle tires should be replaced every 5 years for the same reason.

Websites for brake lines:
www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/brakelines.cfm
www.helusa.com
www.russellperformance.com/metric_two-line.shtml
www.goodridge.co.uk/motorcycle-brake-lines/kawasaki.htm

Get the covered or coated lines as the bare SS lines act like a slow speed file, rubbing through paint,wires, and other brake lines. Some riders have used heatshrink tubing, others the black 1/4" I.D. electrical spiral wrap as a scuff guard.

When replacing the brake lines, get yourself a hand operated "Mity-Vac", it will make bleeding the systems much easier. Sears sells them and I'd imagine mity-vac has a website too.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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23 Sep 2010 07:21 #401135 by 83kaw550
Replied by 83kaw550 on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Yeah, sooner than later I would like to replace the tires, brake lines and even the coils, I'm sure those are getting a little brittle. It all looks original but I can't be sure because the red paint doesn't look like the original paint job, but I could be wrong. Did Kawasaki use a red paint on 83 LTD's? Where can I look for parts on these bikes?(new coils)

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23 Sep 2010 07:55 #401143 by Kidkawie
Replied by Kidkawie on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
As long as the oil grade and weight are correct, you're best bet is to change it on a regular basis. Many times I've seen people buy the most expensive oils and just leave them in their machines way past the time they should have been serviced.

I run a delivery service with a small fleet of Chevy Metros, what most call "throw away vehicles". The oil gets changed every 3k and the filter every other service. I use regular old Citgo 10w30 and a few of my cars have over 300k miles. One of my Dodge vans is almost at 450k.

With my MX bikes I don't buy the $12/liter transmission oil, I use cheap ATF but change it every 3 rides.

1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125

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23 Sep 2010 13:07 #401209 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
83kaw550 wrote:

...Where can I look for parts on these bikes?(new coils)


Click here > www.z1enterprises.com/

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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23 Sep 2010 13:41 #401213 by 83kaw550
Replied by 83kaw550 on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Thanks a bunch Patton, this will come in handy. Much appreciated!

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23 Sep 2010 20:02 #401327 by RonKZ650
Replied by RonKZ650 on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
Paint is not original. That bike only came in two tone pink or green/purple with flames.:laugh:
Well I think my memory may be fading on that model, but 100 percent certain that paint is not original. Oil is pretty forgiving. I don't particularly like the 5w40 Rotella as it shears to a 5w20 in a thousand miles. maybe that does no harm, but I don't like it. The 15w40 oil is cheaper and better.

321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

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24 Sep 2010 15:01 #401489 by 83kaw550
Replied by 83kaw550 on topic Engine oil, brake fluid
15W40 Synthetic or Petro?

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