1980 kz1000 clutch cable broke! how to replace?

hey guys, i just got my bike a couple weeks ago, and have been rapidly improving the condition of the bike, with rebuilding the carbies, cleaning her up, repainting the tins, recovering the seat, and i even started replacing every rusty or ugly bolt with a fresh new stainless or chrome one, depending on what was available. so i got the bike running and looking great, and i've ridden it a good 1500 miles over 2 weeks! thing is, though, today i ride over to my buddy's house to get him to ride with me, and on our way out, pop! the clutch cable breaks.:woohoo:

how do i replace it? i've done the easy part(removing it from the lever and from the frame) but i'm a little intimidated about pulling the little cover off the engine to do that part. i haven't bought a cable yet, but i'll worry bout that when i have the old one off. anybody got a link for a FSM or something like that, or take pictures when they did it?
(by the way, i searched, and over 10 pages of posts never found what i needed)

It is very simple. All you have to do is remove the shift lever on the left side and than the countershaft sprocket cover (four bolts) and it is all right there. On some bikes you might have to remove the left front foot peg bracket. If the bike has stock handle bars than a stock cable length is going to be required. If the bike has lowered bars than you will require a shorter cable. You can buy OE Kawasaki cables or you can get cables from "Motion-Pro". I Have been using Motion-Pro cables for Decades.

To expand on Okatar's procedure:

Clutch Cable Replacement On some Kawasaki Motorcycles

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

This is from the Kawasaki Web Parts diagram. This should be cleaned and lubed while the cover is off, before fitting the new cable. Its the release pivot assy. #14-#25 on lower part of image.

thanks guys! i have a friend coming over that works for a motorcycle repair shop, and he claims he can make me a new cable, so we'll give that a shot.i really appreciate the step by step list and the pictures! that's gonna make this go a whole lot faster... it's still way more complicated than my R1 though....
EDIT: so i took the shifter, peg, and cover off, and you guys were right- it is super simple! i should have a new motion pro cable within the next couple hours, and get to go for a ride with the wifey this afternoon. i'm stoked!