PO is a jerk...camshaft bolt holes stripped...

Rock on! you guys are the best! To the bat cave! well...the garage at least.

Yes, some people prefer the Time-Serts. I have never used them. I would imagine that on holes that are tapped all the way to the top they would be fantastic, and much better than the Heli-Coils. I however do not know if they would fit inside the doweled holes that are sunk. I am not sure if the outside diameter of the top lip is small enough to fit. I will call them and see if they are under 8mm, which is what they would have to be to fit. I would like to try out Time-Serts because they are claimed not to back out. I would also imagine that if you use the 12mm long ones, since they are carbon steel, that they could be torqued down to the 12 lb/ft as specified in the book.

I would have it tig welded and taped,

RsvBruno wrote:

So could anyone tell me if they have had any luck doing a time-sert or heli-coil in one of these places, or if there is room to drill a tad lower maybe and get a longer bolt? Any help would be appreciated. Been lurking on here far too long so I thought I'd post up and see what you guys come up with. Thanks in advance.

Bruno

Timeserts

:}

I talked to the people at Time-Serts and they recommend kit #1610D, which comes with the drill guide and also with the 12mm long inserts and not the 9.4mm inserts. The upper lip of the insert will fit inside the 8mm dowel hole. The thing about Time-Serts is that once installed, they are in for ever. The lower threads get "rolled" into the base material and get flared out. When they get installed they mus get installed right the first time. I think that i might order one of these kits from them. They are $67.41 including the drill guide and 12mm inserts. Extra inserts are $1.34 each.

No use getting too rocket science in the repair, helicoil, timeserts, same idea basically and they both do the job just fine. I've stripped quite a few of these myself. The exhaust will always strip at even 8 ft/lb. I do 5.5 ft/lb to minimize strips and even at that they feel kind of iffy sometimes.
I dont think studs would work as they would have to be an inch taller than the top of the cap to allow the threads to be where you need them when installing the caps and would be too long after install.

I'll wager one problem with stripped cap bolts is that most people don't have a low range torque wrench that is very accurate in the 100 inch-pound area.

We helicoil them all the time. Be sure you do it on a mill or good drill press so that you tap the holes exactly perpendicular to the surface.

It would be very easy to junk the head if not done correctly.

APE Jay wrote:

We helicoil them all the time. Be sure you do it on a mill or good drill press so that you tap the holes exactly perpendicular to the surface.

It would be very easy to junk the head if not done correctly.

or just use the cam saddle as a guide.

1 ft-lb = 12 in-lbs = 192 oz-in. Is that right?

105 oz-in would be 0.546875 ft-lb?

1/2 ft-lb on 6mm?

1 ounce in = 0.00520833333 pounds foot, so:

Yes, you are correct. But, a lb. ft torque wrench would not be accurate enough to use. This also means that 12 ft lbs. is almost 24 times as much torque as is necessary.

If you drill out any larger than the area of the hole for the Guide pins, the steel cylinders, you will change the cap/ bearing alignment. Then the cam bearing surface would require Align boring/ honing, with oversize alignment Guide Pins. Be careful that the these are still used to align the caps. Don't drill such a large hole that you remove material meant for these to fit in.