clutch push-rod adjustment problem

I've been having a problem lately on my 87 KZ1000 where If I adjust the pushrod adjustment screw until its tight against the pushrod the cam plate will be pushed too far out and past the little key that keeps it located. My solution has been to not adjust it too tight but then the clutch release lever will eventually start to pull too far and the three ball bearings in their plate will actually turn out of the cam and then I have to pull the sprocket cover off and reset the clutch release lever.

It seems like the push rod is just a little too short or there is something worn too much so I can't get the proper adjustment. Does anyone know what the problem might be?

ull the sprocket cover and look carefully at the clutch throw out mechanism. Where the clutch cable is secured, there is a "Clevis", it will develop wear after a few years making clutch adjustment "Iffy".

My I suspect one or more parts are worn as was on my 82 GPz1100 B2. I removed the large rivet and found by using a 1/4" fastener, I was able to repair the part.

Bad,I believe you've simply lost the #8 ball bearing which is supposed to reside at the cl. basket end of the push rod.(see pg 71 of FSM #10) It's presence can be checked by simply removing pushrod from c/s side, usually it'll simply roll out following the pushrod, but if you've a small (telescoping) magnet you can "fish" without going into the clutch side. it's absence would result in exactly your' prob. PS, always allow @ 1/4 turn's slack when adjusting pushrod, otherwise, the pushrod will spin w/ clutch, & eventually weld/fuse to "bits". luck G

If not due to the above reasons, and the adjusting mechanism was removed for cleaning and lubing, it's sometimes possible to orient the mechanism in the wrong position when replacing it.

Good Fortune!

Gane, I don't believe the chain drives have the ball bearing. My Clymer manual shows the ball in the shaft drive's clutch assembly but not in my chain drive. Same with the kawasaki parts diagram at bikebandit. Can anyone confirm that?

I did take the clutch cover off and pulled the pressure plate. There was no ball in there although the bearing assembly in the center of the pressure plate that the push-rod rides against is super loose with about a 1/4 of play. I can turn it sideways and it'll fall out. That can't be right? I'm ordering a new bearing assembly for it today.

My guess is that the release assembly had been adjusted too tight causing the push-rod to ride that bearing eventually wearing down the bearing race to its current condition. Does that sound reasonable to anyone else?

Also I'm wondering if the clutch release lever dimples that the three balls ride in are supposed to be perfectly round or pear shaped like mine are. not sure if this is by design or if its from wear. See photo.

Bad, I'm no longer certain. Both my FSM, & 1982 vintage microfich show a bearing type spiral actuator (there were 3 that I'm aware of) The 3 ball ramp which you have, a multi bearing spiral, & a plastic/metal spiral. AND, there is no illustration of the radial roller bearing assy at cl. pressure plate... My '77 kz1000 A1 (chain dr) has the radial roller brg pressure plate, uses the ball bearing & has the multi ball actuator. as i recall, the radial roller bearing should be sandwiched between two steel washers at presure plate. if present, I would re-assemble your' actuator/,c/s cover,pushrod, add the "mystery" ball bearing re-assemble pressure plate assy, & with cl. cover off operate handle lever. if pressure plate moves @ 3-4 mm's from plate stack, & adjustment screw is within perameters, problem solved.If not, keep us in the loop, luck G

81-82 kz1000 j bikes used the above actuator as did the Police bikes.bj

i had/have that same problem. well it turns out the PO stripped 2 of the bolts and it caused the sprocket cover to move just so slight you cant even hardly see it. so we retapped it and it seems to be working now. i dont know if you have the same problem or not but check and make sure your bolts arent stripped.

And to answer another question,yes the small ball bearing races are "pear shaped on purpose.They come new that way.bj

Thanks, I figured pear shape was by design. glad to have the confirmation.

Did U get problem solved? I am having similar issues.The PO somehow jammed the wrong sprocket cover onto my bike and was not able to get all the bolts in,which led to flex in the cover when the clutch was actuated.I kept wondering why my hand was so tired.I installed the correct sprocket cover,put a new ball bearing race mechanism in, and now I have too much slack in the cable and cant get proper clutch adjustment--ie, I now have a "suicide clutch" 1/2 inch of release equals fully engaged.Dangerous.I figure our issues are the same so one of us should find the solution and let the other know.There is no ball bearing in the clutch side of my actator shaft either.Maybe actuator rod is too short?If so how did that happen?bj

OK. When all else fails,consult the manual.I found my shop manual today.There was a small footnote on the 82 "J" bikes and the 1100s. They do use the ball bearing type release.They DO have a single ball on the clutch side of the release arm mechanism.The clutch release adjustment is performed exactly the opposite of the other KZ1000s."loosen the locking nut and turn the adjustment screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the screw is tight.Then back off 1/4 turn clockwise and tighten down the lock nut. KZs that use the screw and ramp type adjuster adjust by turning the adjustment screw clockwise until tight and then back off 1/4 turn.I guess I will take my housing and adjustment mechanism back apart tomorrow and see if I can see a ball bearing up in the hole where the shaft resides. I will also readjust the clutch and see if my "suicide" release goes away.Even the Kaw dealers parts fiche did not show the ball bearing nor does BikeBandit but it certainly shows in the shop manual.I guess no one here has the above referenced bikes and knew about the bass-ackwards adjustment process. Oh well,live and learn.bj