Problems Starting Z1 (KZ1000)

Handsome bike!

With ignition ON, what's voltage at coil primaries?

Good Fortune!

PLUMMEN wrote:

Soulmighty wrote:

During this project I found that I had to cut open the EFI harness and remove the portion that connects the IC Igniter to the main harness. This was the only portion I needed to get the bike to crank. The bike cranks perfectly but there's no spark.

I believe my coils are screwed but I will follow the advice given by MFolks and check the wiring just to make sure. Once I've ruled that out, the coils I believe is the only thing it could be. If anyone has any other ideas please feel free to add to this discussion. Thanks everyone!

Dave

that doesnt sound right

I agree. Sounds like no power to the IC box to me. Haven't worked on a classic in years but I converted a lot of GPz11's to carbs. Everything fuel injection related simply unplugs.

Also you can get a better fitting clutch cable from Z1 enterprises

Before I found the portion of the EFI harness that connects the IC Igniter to the main, the bike wouldn't crank and now it does. This being the case, do you still think the IC Igniter is bad? I don't know about that.

If the IC Igniter was bad, wouldn't the bike be unable to crank? Just curious and again please understand that I am only trying to learn more with my questions.

The bike cranks but I have no spark in the plugs. Wouldn't a solution also be the coils are bad. Do they not have some play in giving the plugs spark too?

Thanks everyone!!!

It's unlikely imo that both coils have failed.

Consider the following.

Both the coils and igniter box require switched battery positive voltage, which is usually furnished by a red or red/yellow wire from the right hand handlebar switch per oem fitment, when the ignition switch is ON.

A coil charges while it remains grounded. Then fires when it becomes ungrounded (same as when points open).

The igniter box works in conjunction with the pick-up modules to repetitively ground and un-ground the coil. That's the purpose in life for the igniter box and pick-up modules (i.e., to repetitively ground and un-ground the coils at the proper time).

Without voltage through its primary winding, a coil can't properly function. And that's not the coil's fault.

Without voltage to the igniter, the igniter can't properly function. And that's not the igniter's fault.

Imo, before blaming lack of spark on either coils or igniter, would first assure that both coils and igniter are receiving the requisite switched battery voltage.

When lack of spark persists where both coils and igniter are receiving the requisite switched battery voltage, that condition doesn't necessarily indicate a defective coil or a defective igniter. Because other issues (such as defective wiring or connectors), could prevent spark at spark plugs on perfect coils and igniter.
For instance, there could be a defect in wiring between pick-up module and igniter.

Of course, battery power must first be getting from the battery to the ignition switch, and from there to the right handlebar switch, in order to furnish power from the handlebar switch to the coils and igniter.

Good Fortune!

Time to get out the multimeter and see where power is and isn't. Troubleshooting is a logical process, don't let the bigger picture scare you when looking at wiring diagrams.

If it were me, I'd check the coils input voltage with the key on. Put the RED Positive lead on the RED wire going to both coils, the BLACK lead will be either on the Negative (-)battery terminal or a good ground.The multimeter will be set on D.C. Volts, range of 50.

If no voltage, check back to the run/stop switch on the right handle bar switch pod, if no voltage to the switch, open up the headlight housing looking for loose connections or corroded wires.

The starting system is seperate from the ignition system, so it's possible to crank(turn the engine over) but not start and run.

Another thought is check the wiring going to the starter solenoid,look for a WHITE with RED stripe wire going to one of the heavy duty terminals, it's possible it's on the wrong location. On my 82 GPz1100 B2 model, the wire supplies voltage to the main 30 amp fuse.

I'd also check the fuses as they have been known to fail but look good. Take them out one at a time checking for tightness of the metal end caps and whether or not the filiment inside the glass tube is intact.

Post back your findings if possible

Soulmighty wrote:

Before I found the portion of the EFI harness that connects the IC Igniter to the main, the bike wouldn't crank and now it does. This being the case, do you still think the IC Igniter is bad? I don't know about that.

If the IC Igniter was bad, wouldn't the bike be unable to crank? Just curious and again please understand that I am only trying to learn more with my questions.

The bike cranks but I have no spark in the plugs. Wouldn't a solution also be the coils are bad. Do they not have some play in giving the plugs spark too?

Thanks everyone!!!

ic igniter shouldnt be related to starter circuit i wouldnt think anyway,was clutch pulled in when you tried to crank it?you need something to control voltage to ignition/coils thats igniters job

Soulmighty wrote:

Before I found the portion of the EFI harness that connects the IC Igniter to the main, the bike wouldn't crank and now it does. This being the case, do you still think the IC Igniter is bad? I don't know about that.

If the IC Igniter was bad, wouldn't the bike be unable to crank? Just curious and again please understand that I am only trying to learn more with my questions.

The bike cranks but I have no spark in the plugs. Wouldn't a solution also be the coils are bad. Do they not have some play in giving the plugs spark too?

Thanks everyone!!!

sweet motor........

Yes, the bike won't crank unless you have the clutch pulled in. I'm going to test the IC Igniter and Coils tomorrow with a multimeter. I think that's the next logical step. Everyone has been super on here and I just want to say thank you again!!

Here's a pic of the custom paint you can't see in the other pics.. Black with gold metalflake..

If a wiring diagram is needed, here's the link to a downloadable wiring diagram for 1980 Z1000G LTD Classic.

To access downloadable wiring diagram, click here > Click On This Spot .

As known, many wiring diagrams and other info for individual models may be found in Filebase under KZInformation.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

Looking at the wiring diagram, I see a resistor in the ignition circuit. I wonder if it's still good.

If it were me, I'd take the resistor out of the circuit and buy two of the Dyna 3 ohm green coils,new non-resistive sparkplug wires/leads, and not use the resistive sparkplug caps for a stromger spark.

MFolks wrote:

Looking at the wiring diagram, I see a resistor in the ignition circuit. I wonder if it's still good.

If it were me, I'd take the resistor out of the circuit and buy two of the Dyna 3 ohm green coils,new non-resistive sparkplug wires/leads, and not use the resistive sparkplug caps for a stronger spark.

You Betcha!

And while at it, would fit Dyna solid core plug wires (that come with caps already attached),

Together with a set of brand new NGKB8ES spark plugs.

And where there's any doubt about the wonderful when they're working oem pick-up modules or i.c. igniter, replace them by installing a Dyna-S electronic ignition.

May then shelve the oem igniter, pick-up coils, and resistor.

The existing ignition coils could be tested with an official Kawasaki Ignition Coil Tester (some dealership shops still have these), and the igniter might be serviceable or repairable, but they are getting pretty old. So why keep worrying about them.

Good Fortune!

Loudhvx's igniter replacement using off the shelf GM electronic modules is another thing this owner can look at if his igniter tests bad.

I've got all the parts to replace the Ic Igniter if it quits on my bike.