Problems Starting Z1 (KZ1000)

If anyone needs a NIB igniter for a KZ1000 Jengine bike I have one.I bought it for my bike then went DYNA instead .will sell for 1/2 of what I paid.Thanks.bj

I got the bike started and it turned out to be the IC Ignitor not having a lead tied to the - pole on the battery. Now it appears I have another problem. The engine got so hot that the 500+ degree engine enamel burnt right off the header only on cyliner 1, 2 and 3.. Cylinder 4 remained fairly cool in comparison with enamel intact. The left side of the engine got considerably hotter than the right. I have no idea what the problem could be. Cylinder out on 4? Jets too small? Please help if you can.. Thanks in advance!

Dave

How's compression on all cylinders? It should be checked hot and cold. Valves been checked for proper clearances?

I use either NGK B8ES or Denso W24-ESU sparkplugs gapped .028"-.032"

Don't let the egine idle excessively as it will overheat. It helps when doing running tune ups(like carb sync.) to position a fan for cooling.

Hey! Thanks for answering so fast! I'm not sure how to check for compression but I do have to correct NGK plugs already. Would you be willing to speak over the phone? If so, send me your # via a private message and I'll call. I tell ya.. after I'm done getting this bike in order, I'll be pretty good at fixing them. I just hope I dont have a major problem.

Soulmighty wrote:

I got the bike started and it turned out to be the IC Ignitor not having a lead tied to the - pole on the battery. Now it appears I have another problem. The engine got so hot that the 500+ degree engine enamel burnt right off the header only on cyliner 1, 2 and 3.. Cylinder 4 remained fairly cool in comparison with enamel intact. The left side of the engine got considerably hotter than the right. I have no idea what the problem could be. Cylinder out on 4? Jets too small? Please help if you can.. Thanks in advance!

Dave

Would use timing light to assure the advancer is properly functioning.

Should see it quickly move back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle.

The advancer may require lubing and possibly both cleaning and lubing.

Cylinder #4 is likely failing to combust, for whatever reason.


I don't yet suspect an issue regarding pilot jet size.

Good Fortune!

before painting headers,good idea to get some ceramic caliper paint and paint as far down on the inside of the header tubes as u can reach.will save ur "pretty paint" on the outside.bj

Ok.. making some progress. A bad plug was causing cylinder 4 not to fire so I have to get a new spark plug. I switched the plug from #1 to #4 and that's how I figured this out. However, it still seems that the engine is just getting way too hot. Could 3 out of 4 cylinders firing cause the engine to get too hot?

If anyone could give me an idea of what could cause the engine to heat up so fast, please let me know. I changed the oil twice and flushed the engine the first time I changed the oil. The engine still seems like it's getting too hot.

Help!

Thanks,

Dave

its an air cooled engine,if its sitting idling for more than a few minutes turn a box fan on the motor

To safely confirm that all 4 are firing, get a spray bottle of water and squirt the exhaust pipes.

Water flashes to steam at 212F/100C(much safer than touching the pipes).

Soulmighty wrote:

...flushed the engine the first time I changed the oil....

:huh:

Soulmighty wrote:

...Could 3 out of 4 cylinders firing cause the engine to get too hot?....

Nope.

Patton.. Motor flush is used to get gunk and sludge out of an engine that hasn't been started in some time. This engine hadn't been started in over 25 years. To use it, add it to your engine and let it idle for 5 min, then change the oil and filter.