At a loss - need help getting kz400 running

I can't figure out why my girlfriend's 77 kz400 won't start. It has spark (I just got a new dyna coil installed). It has compression. I'm using the kick start and that seems to be working properly. I cleaned the carbs about two months ago, and just in case they were gummed up already I poured a bit of gas in the spark plug hole. What am I missing?

On a side note, I can't get the flywheel/starter clutch pulled. It doesn't engage when I use the electric start. The starter motor turns the sprocket, but the flywheel slips. I just picked up the puller bolt from z1, which tightens into the threads clockwise. I turned it pretty hard clockwise, but nothing happens. The FSM makes it look like that is the right way, but if I turn it any harder I think I'm going to strip the bolt or rotor.

Turn the bolt in and then with either a block of wood and a hammer or a shot filled hammer give it smack or two.

Some flywheels are on a tapered shaft, others have a woodruf key(kinda like a half moon piece of metal in a slot).

I tried that and nothing happened. I don't get what's even supposed to happen. Since the bolt is threaded into the flywheel, it's not going to go anywhere when I hit it with the hammer, is it? It's just going to put pressure on the threads.

chrispysaki wrote:

I can't figure out why my girlfriend's 77 kz400 won't start. It has spark (I just got a new dyna coil installed). It has compression. I'm using the kick start and that seems to be working properly. I cleaned the carbs about two months ago, and just in case they were gummed up already I poured a bit of gas in the spark plug hole. What am I missing?

Pouring in raw gas will flood the engine. It runs on gas vapor, not liquid gas.

One thing to check is the timing and the timing advancer. If not working, it will make it unbelievably hard to start.

Make sure your choke jets are clear on the carbs.

chrispysaki wrote:

I tried that and nothing happened. I don't get what's even supposed to happen. Since the bolt is threaded into the flywheel, it's not going to go anywhere when I hit it with the hammer, is it? It's just going to put pressure on the threads.

On the 900/1000 rotor you need a ball bearing to put on the crank snout then as the bolt threads in to the rotor it will bottom out on the bearing and pull the rotor off of the crank without damaging the crank threads. Hope this helps

chrispysaki wrote:

I can't figure out why my girlfriend's 77 kz400 won't start. It has spark (I just got a new dyna coil installed). It has compression. I'm using the kick start and that seems to be working properly. I cleaned the carbs about two months ago, and just in case they were gummed up already I poured a bit of gas in the spark plug hole. What am I missing?....

Perhaps existing spark is inadequate for whatever reason.
Is it a fat blue spark, or a weak yellow spark?

Could try spraying some starter fluid into carb air intakes immediately before attempting to kick start. And see whether the engine tries to fire.

If combustion chambers are flooded with old fuel, could also spray starting fluid into the spark plug holes, and allow the combustion chambers to dry out real well.

Compression plus starter fluid plus spark should produce combustion.

Good Fortune!

Edit -- and as suggested by bountyhunter, would also confirm ignition timing via static check.

Be sure to align the F mark with the case mark just as the points open. NOT the T mark.

Thanks everyone. It is a nice blue spark, at least when I ground it to the case. I set the point gap, but I'll go back and make sure the marks are correct.

Have you tried to push/ pull start it? Does it kick back on the kick starter? Or back fire? Have you opened the carb bowl drain screw and get a good flow when on "Prime"?

Sucess! I don't know what I did different today than the last several attempts, but I kicked it over today and she fired right up!

My new battery ran dead, so I hooked it up to my car battery and that seemed to make the difference. I don't understand why battery charge would make a difference when kick starting it. Either way, it's running and that's a good thing. Now on to getting the electric start to work.

I'd open up the right handlebar switch pod and check for broken wires/dirty switch contacts/broken solder joints.

Also inside the headlight housing is where a majority of mainharness connectors are located. Check them for corrosion too.

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm (not sure if the website is still viable)


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.