CROSS THREADED PLUG

i have used the time sert kit and also the kd kit in fact i have one of those plus extra inserts in my track box just in case the kd one works well for the price and you can do it right on the motor if you use enough wheel bearing grease to keep the chips in place. put the piston up to tdc on compression.and have q-tips handy for the chips that may come off the tap. works very well and since they are solid no chance of combustion gases getting past the coils.

yea, i always use time serts, Grainger, Napa or a GOOD auto store will always have them. In most cases i just take the head off. in all reality on a kz1000 the head only takes about an hour to get off an on and re timed if you know what your doing.

KZ1000 is already a 14 mm plug. I would use that reverse thread tool. With a norman street motor, you won't have any problem with the plug coming loose.

scubarod wrote:

I BELEIVE I HAVE GONE TO DEEP AND THE PLUG WILL NOT SEAT

Perhaps some good may come of this by way of education to others and helping them to avoid a similar fate.

Length of the spark plug's threaded section is known as "reach" which is roughly equal to depth of the spark plug hole threaded into the engine.

When screwed fully in, the plug's male threads basically fill all the female threads inside the plug hole in the head.
This is about 3/4" or 17mm of threaded interface between the plug threads and head.

Where the plug is cross-threaded at the beginning of the hole, it requires some serious twisting to force the plug cross-threaded throughout the entire depth of the hole. And it's virtually impossible to be doing so without knowing something is very wrong.

That's why it's strongly recommended to start the plug threading process by holding the plug with your fingers and feeling the threads properly engage for the first turn or so, until a plug wrench becomes necessary to complete the installation.
Do not "start" the plug using a wrench.
If using a socket, hold the socket with your fingers to "feel" the threads properly engage as the plug enters the hole.
And keep turning with fingers until the wrench becomes necessary.

Where fingers aren't long enough, a short length of rubber tubing fitted snugly around top of the plug will usually suffice.
And the short length of tubing is an excellent addition to the tool pack for removing and inserting hot plugs, especially at roadside for throttle-chop plug readings.

Not meaning to sound preachy, but cross-threaded spark plugs are so unnecessary, and generally easy to avoid with just a little foreplay.

Good Fortune!

just to add to pattons advice, I use copper anti sieze on the plugs when installing them, keeps the chance of pulling the threads out when removing a plug

i am preety sure the threads were cross threaded before and retaped and there was also a bad burr at the top where the plug seats and there is no way i had a good seal there hense my ticking problem.i used the time sert and i cannot believe how easy it was and i know for sure that i now have a perfect seat for my plug.i bought the kit locally and it was made special for plug repair 14mmx1.250 pitch plug for the kzp bikes,and i used the advise from you guys on the shop vac larger to smaller hose to vacuum the chips off the top of the piston which i first filled with wheel bearing grease..then i also filled the cylinder with berry mans b12 several times and revacuumed,then i blew out with 125 psi of air,i alternated these steps several times then started the engine with that plug out and thats it! i have ridden it several times now without hearing the mysterious noise i could not find,thanks everyone!:lol: