Sanding valve shims?

WTF Nads... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

"To be exact, they are $4.62 each at Z1E."... I was including shipping... :laugh: :laugh:

From your other post, seemed only needed two shims, being for two .04mm clearances, as all the other clearances were .05mm or more.

Depending on the actual shim sizes at hand, perhaps one of the >.10mm site shims could exchange with an .04mm shim site.

But at most, seems only two shims would be needed.

Good Fortune!

It was my understanding that .05mm is too small as well. Someone here said that .05 is okay, but the book says .08 minimum. I didn't know Z1 had them. I'll check with him.

polkat wrote:

It was my understanding that .05mm is too small as well. Someone here said that .05 is okay, but the book says .08 minimum. I didn't know Z1 had them. I'll check with him.

FSM for large fours from '73Z1~'79KZ1000 says .05mm~.10mm valve clearance. (28mm over-bucket shim)

But apparently factory spec for KZ750 clearance is larger @ .08mm~.18mm (as cited in another forum), for 13mm under-bucket shim. Same as KZ650.

Would abide by the FSM for KZ750.

Depending on the existing shim sizes at hand, may be able to swap shim sites to gain required clearance.

Good Fortune!

What about this: The book says not to "grind" shims as they may crack during the process. The forum answers I got were that they are nitrated and as the valve stems are only 6mm wide (against the 13mm shim) that grinding the shims would remove the nitrate and eventually the shims would cup and destroy the clearance. Understandable.

Still, I am very poor and trying to get this engine running as best I can. I got to thinking that the buckets support one whole side of the shim, as opposed to the little valve stem on the other side. If only the bucket side of the shim were worked down, as flat as possible, would the removal of the nitrate on that side still be a problem?

Yes, I am trying to get the engine running as cheaply as possible, and I realize how stupid that might sound. After all, $5 for a shim might seem trivial(and it is), but $25 or more for several is hard for me when it's a struggle just to get food each day. All the responses are quite appreciated!

I know others have posted before, but to make it very clear DONT NOT GRIND OR SAND THE SHIMS !!!
they are not nitrated they are case hardend, total different process.
the purpose for them being harder is to resist wear on both sides, if you weaken any part of the shim, it IS going to FAIL.

since money is tight, post the sizes of the shims you need, maybe one of us here can swap you shims then you are not anything but some postage, just make sure to send the shims back to whoever you strike a deal with

I can't even believe we are still on this subject. Two shims equals less than $10. That is what it will cost to fill the gas tank. It will be four times as much to put the proper oil in it. This means that this bike should not be ridden until the money is available to do all of these things. Heck the oil filter costs as much as one shim.

just use washers ...or the little punch out from electrical boxes and file the snap tabs down....if you do it right you'll have a few extra ,you'll get free gumballs and a rubber decoder ring....also coffee mugs with the handle ground off and a hole bored down low make excellent pistons.....a car tire sliced down the center tread and melted on the edges makes a perfect crown and most are an exact 130mm when melted right.....

i stole the grips off of amy's nieces big wheel and used a sharpie to color to match my bike...saved me six dollars each...bought 12 one dollar scratch offs and won a free ticket...my ass is gonna be rich ,when i get back to quickie mart tonight......

Well, what I need is three at 2.45mm, and one at 2.40mm. These are the under bucket 13mm type.

Anyone?

I had them but you are about 4 hours too late just sent them to timebomb33 sorry