Clutch won't disengage

I recently had my clutch cable break on my 76 kz750 when I was on a ride. I got it disconnected until I could pull it enough to get it into neutral. While pushing it about a half mile home I tried to start it in first and just crawl home like that. Of course it wouldn't work and no that I have a new cable on, the clutch won't disengage. I have tightened it, adjusted the clutch bolt, everything hat the manual says. My next step is to take the right engine cover and hope to fix it. Any thoughts before I start draining the oil? Its a 2 cylinder by the way.

Put it on the side stand and none of the oil should come out if you decide to tear off the clutch cover.

Pull the mechanism/adjuster cover off and make sure that everything is engaging properly behind there first.

Good luck!

If the clutch was working with the old cable, it will work with the new so no need to get into the oil. I'll assume the same basic operation of other Kawasakis. Pull the lever, pulls the cable, pulls the release mech arm which is a worm gear. The worm gear moves in as the arm rotates pushing the pushrod through the engine disengaging the clutch. So it's all mechanical in nature and all you should have to do when installing a new cable is to adjust the cable adjusters. If the adjusters on the cable don't do it, take the cover back off and look at what you may have done wrong. Pushrod not seated, cover not seated, cable not hooked up to the release ect.
Another thing, don't push your motorcycle from a broken cable. Not necessary. Just put it in neutral, start the engine, paddle up to 1mph, step down to first gear and go. From there you can shift through all the gears, just let off the throttle slightly, shift and you can ride 95% like normal. Shift down the same way and as you're still rolling shift up into neutral to stop. I've ridden many a mile with a broken cable over the years.

Yes all riders should learn to ride with out a cable. I rigged one to a shortend broom handle and used it for a few days once. It also might have broke becasue it would not disengage. Smoething might be stuck. Dont try to force it...Russ

Russ Jackson wrote:

Smoething might be stuck. Dont try to force it...Russ

How many times have I learned that lesson the hard way! And yet...I always seem to forget it...

I have already taken off the clutch cover, aligned everything, adjusted the cable and clutch screw, the cork-screw mechanism works fine. and it pushes he push rod in no problem. if I use the kick start to move it a little and try to push the rod i as far as it will go, it starts to knock on something if I continue to screw it in. So I know everyting up to te rod is working. Im guessing somehow the small metal ball that is supposed to be there to stop the clutch-rod is gone somehow. Thats why I'll probably take h RIGHT cover off when it warms up.

ok, so I took off the right cover and tokk out all of the pads. they all look good and verything is fine. nothing is locked up as far as the pads, but I dont have the specialty tools to take off the next cover part. Could it work if I was to hold in the clutch as far as itll go and try and start it in first? I feel like that could break loose the clutch from the drive.

For clutch push rod adjustment, some bikes screw in clockwise until lightly seated, then out 1/4~1/2 turn counterclockwise, before tightening the locknut. For example, Z1 and KZ900.

Other bikes are the opposite, and screw counterclockwise until lightly seated, then 1/4~1/2 turn clockwise, before tightening the locknut.

I don't know what the particular bike in question calls for, but would follow the FSM. The instructions in some aftermarket manuals are reportedly incorrect.

In any event, wouldn't hurt to attempt the "reverse" adjustment method, and see what happens.

Good Fortune!

thats the thing, ive tried all that. Ive cranked it in as far as it would go, Ive barely put it in, the push rod always pushes in, and when I had the side cover off, it moved he clutch pads fine. I think Im gonna close her up put oil in it and pop it into first from neutral with the clutch in and se if it breaks her loose.

Are you sure you have the correct cable?

Clutch cable swaps are generally not a major issue.

KZCool wrote:

thats the thing, ive tried all that. Ive cranked it in as far as it would go, Ive barely put it in, the push rod always pushes in, and when I had the side cover off, it moved he clutch pads fine. I think Im gonna close her up put oil in it and pop it into first from neutral with the clutch in and se if it breaks her loose.

Where clutch is properly assembled and adjusted, yet fails to fully disengage, would disassemble clutch basket, thoroughly clean all plates (acetone works), lightly sand linings and steel plates with fine sandpaper, and reassemble.

This ought to remove whatever is causing the stickiness between the clutch plates.

Good Fortune!

KZCool wrote:

thats the thing, ive tried all that. Ive cranked it in as far as it would go, Ive barely put it in,

What do you mean 'I've cranked it in as far as it would go'? With the clutch fully assembled, cable, cases etc, the cable should be backed off fully and the slack taken up on the adjustment screw in the left hand engine case, screw the bolt up until it just touches the push rod and then back off 1/4 of a turn, then take up the slack on the cable. You shouldn't move the pushrod at all with the adjuster, only up to it. Unless you have already looked I would check the pushrod for straightness, I can only guess that the case has been fitted slightly out of line and when you have pulled the clutch in the rod has bent and then stuck holding the clutch open. Either that or the worm gear isn't sat in the engine case squarely.