A/F Ratio Meter via OMR

Wow. I didn't dare quote that awsome monstrosity of a post Larry.

I've been searching information on airboxes with manufacturers and racers, and your quoted article is absolutely correct.

In fact, if you can provide the airbox with a filter that has the same resistance and surface area of pods, the max hp output is nearly identical, without the low/mid rpm drop.

One of the key pieces, the snorkel tube that harmonically tunes the air flow, happens to be one of those pieces I lost some time ago, and I did notice a small drop in performance.

If anyone out there has a spare airbox snorkel that fits a 1981 KZ1000M1 CSR, I would be eternally grateful.

Cheers!

Oh got you.... Naw, I've never used anything other than 91 Octane...

But does bring up an interesting concept now that you mentione it... Here in the winter months we receive Ethanol fuel.... :ohmy:

Hmmmmm........... :S :laugh:

Great, now I have to think about that one all night long... Gee, thanks for putting that into my head Larry!
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Oh got you.... Naw, I've never used anything other than 91 Octane...

But does bring up an interesting concept now that you mentione it... Here in the winter months we receive Ethanol fuel.... :ohmy:

Hmmmmm........... :S :laugh:

Great, now I have to think about that one all night long... Gee, thanks for putting that into my head Larry!
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

gee wiz all this mental masturbation is making me tired. It seems that what everyone is saying and then countering besides all of the theory is that in application there are so many variables that even though you will be accurate with readings or assuming so anyway there will be many different situations that will make those readings go lower or higher and when it comes down to it you have to ballpark it anyway and only someone who has experience navigating the mighty mississippi will be aware of the pitfalls. Best case scenario? Fuel injection and active computer mapping. Tell you what. Not gonna break my head over it. Just going to accept carburation as the equivilent to fixing plaster walls. Hard to I
possible to get perfect no matter what so set it yourself based on ballpark readings or have a Kz fanatic tune it for you.
Dave, next summer you should have figured out after much trial and error so I will ride out and we pontificate concerning the finer virtues. Not to do it mind you because then when I get back it will have to be adjusted again. Wow.

It seems to me with all the variables involved with fuel, temp, gas degradation, octane levels, and ethanol thrown in the mix You'd almost be better off on a street bike to just get a narrow band and an a/f r gauge and hook it up. and get a ballpark setup and roll with it. I believe thats what I'm gonna do. Just get it close then fine tune it a little. I appreciate the idea as I would have never thought of using anything "homemade" to tune with. It will make things alot easier. So keep on exploring theories OMR.

thompsonmx100 wrote:

It seems to me with all the variables involved with fuel, temp, gas degradation, octane levels, and ethanol thrown in the mix You'd almost be better off on a street bike to just get a narrow band and an a/f r gauge and hook it up. and get a ballpark setup and roll with it. I believe thats what I'm gonna do. Just get it close then fine tune it a little. I appreciate the idea as I would have never thought of using anything "homemade" to tune with. It will make things alot easier. So keep on exploring theories OMR.

Not very useful on our bikes, unfortunately. Most of the important info will all be outside the range of the narrow band. It would only really be useful for part-throttle cruising at like 50 to 60 mph. But even then, it's basically just a rich or lean indicator. It won't tell how rich or how lean.

Wideband is definitely the way to go. I've been using the Innovate LC1 wideband o2 sensor and controller
with
this gauge.

I was lucky and found a seller selling the whole thing new for the price of the controller alone.

TeK9iNe wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

Actually, the AFR numbers go down (meaning richer) as the temperature rises...

Actually... if you read my post right, I said the fuel in the AFR goes up (richer)... so I think were both right.
The air number decreases, as you stated correctly
I should have said it gets less air, not more fuel, but I guess thats the same :huh:

oops, yeah I missed the "fuel goes up" part. :blush:

Craigy...

You're missing all the fun in this though for next step if I get this to work accurately is devise a home made Dyno! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Narrow band sensors are definitely not the way to go for fine tuning... As LoudVhx mentioned, these type of metering systems can give you extremely false readings so there's truly no way I'd tune using one.

Now for seeing if your extreme Rich or Lean sure but plug conditions and performance alone tell you that.

All joking aside, as mentioned will be interesting to see what type of results are measured for poo-poo and giggles if nothing else...