A/F Ratio Meter via OMR

not including cranking the motor over by the nut on end of crank before you ever started it! :woohoo:

Plummen Now damn it.... :laugh: :laugh:

Not going to change my carbs or go injected.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

LoudHVX... Sweet for I had missed that posting!

Tekie... ~ 2000 miles on the odometer....

For the most part, just using as a jet measurement tool for confirmations on my jetting/plug/power readings...

Based on plug (strap banding, insulator & base ring) colors and conditions, I'm still a tad on the rich side versus too lean which is ideal here in AZ...

As Larry mentioned, due to heat indexes (105-115F summers :blink: ), mild performance engine build etc... rather be on the rich side... Not to mention the increased power and cooling effects it provides.

Now leaving this permanent, oh KZGod no way... freaking hideous.... Even with a clean digital meter & mount, naw... Just using as a tool for confirming my jetting...

Please keep in mind, the display voltages are from no load conditions... The true test and recorded measurements need to be on the road, such as in a Dyno...

OMR, so did you find any correlation with the Junsen Color Tuner you have?

Maybe you can develope the Unified Theory of carb tuning methods. :huh:

Best of success,
Bill

"did you find any correlation with the Junsen Color Tuner you have"...

Not sure I'm fully understanding your question but they would all work hand in hand anyways...

Meaning... The gunson is a good tool to actually view the combustion area for any given cylinder... If adjusting the pilot screw for example didn't change yellow to bunson blue, great t-shoot tool....

There's actually 3 adjustments accomplished in using the Gunson color tune...

1) At idle.... Basically tune to bunson blue, then back to yellow then find a spot half way between but on the blue side... As I had provided in the avi clip previously, you can actually here your rpms /rough idle... Henceforth, tune by ear comes into light bulb over head... Now I get it!

2) Slow ramp from idle up to 3000rpm... Should stay blue the whole way... If turns yellow on you, need to lean it out some...

3) Twist it up to 3K then let it snap back to idle....
Should be blue then go yellow then blue....

Now with that in mind, @ 3000rpm this is not giving you the whole rpm range so mostly for initial pilot jetting and settings...

Example, in most carb data, pilots are usually .5 to 1.5 turns out max... If you have to go more than that, require a different jet size... So in using the Gunson, if your not seeing bunson blue and you had to turn more than 1.5 turns out, well you can actually see this live... How cool is that!

Or if you were burning way lean, how would you truly know... Well if you can't see yellow via turning the pilot screw, then you can see it live... Again, How cool is that!

Now do I feel this tool is truly required... Naw for what I've been learning especially in performance and plug readings after each change, I'm pretty damn close to being at the 13.8:1 power settings of my jetting...

Same time, would be cool to see if I dialed it in "old school ways"... How cool is that!

Not to mention... If my readings come out where I can afford without going too lean another clip position change and not worrying about blowing a hole in a piston for more power... Sweet!

OMR

OMR - Not sure if I missed it or not, but I'm assuming you did end up going with the wideband O2 sensor?

I was doing some research on this as well as I am working up some plans to do a turbo KZ650 with fuel injection. Hopefully I'll be able to get started on it soon.

By the way, be warned, if you have a curious person watching you when installing the holder for the o2 sensor, practically every other sentence you answer with will contain the word "bung". How many jokes will come out of that? I don't know. I lost count. :laugh:

Hahah.....I blame Mike Judge.

Old Man Rock wrote:

Same time, would be cool to see if I dialed it in "old school ways"... How cool is that!

Not to mention... If my readings come out where I can afford without going too lean another clip position change and not worrying about blowing a hole in a piston for more power... Sweet!

Cool for sure, and it has provided very good results for me many times, just takes alot longer.
As you go past the magic "safe" numbers, you can feel the power loss getting leaner. You'll really get to know it after a while, I wouldnt be too worried about holeing a piston

Don't forget, as external temps go up so does fuel in AFR... If your really worried about temps, might I suggest:



Replaces oil fill cap, and works very well i've heard.
$65 at American Classix

Cheers!

dave you must drink a shitload of coffee because OMR never sleeps do you. inquiring minds have to know, don't they.

Actually, the AFR numbers go down (meaning richer) as the temperature rises. Given the same settings, the mixture will register richer as the temperature goes up because the gas mixes better and the air is less dense.

That's why theres a tradeoff for guys riding in colder climates. If I jet it to run good in colder weather (40's F), I can notice the power drops off on really hot days (80's F and up).

"dave you must drink a shitload of coffee because OMR never sleeps do you. inquiring minds have to know, don't they."... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Well actually both personalities do... :blush: :laugh:
It goes somewhat in what I do for a living... R&D Electrical/Electronics.

LoudHVX is correct regarding the temp especially regarding oxygen sensors... The old sensor technology was either 1 or 2 wire narrow band sensors. Then came 3 to 4 wire sensors that still being a narrow band included a heater.

For the most part, that was good enough informing your emission controls your vehicle was either way rich, way lean or at the desired 14.7:1 "Stoich" for emissions/air pollutants. But this wouldn't be good for performance vehicles where you want the power somewhere around 13.5/13.8:1...

All of which still didn't provide the accuracies/controls used in a Wide Band sensor.

For my prototype:
Bosch 17014 LSU 4.2 5 Wire Wideband Oxygen Sensor
Bosch OE # 0 258 007 057 ( 0258007057)

A well designed controller (cpu) will measure this temp thus keeping the sensor heaters at a constant temperature by turning off heater power accordingly.

The VS/IP sensor is used for monitoring but also for controlling the fuel injected systems in your vehicle...

Maybe this will help and give you some insight to wide band sensors...

OMR

ok, now for the stupid question,
I understand the idea of setting the fuel mixture using a O2 sensor, but since the bikes have independent carbs for each cyl, shouldnt this be done on each cyl in order to get the correct mixture for each one rather than taking a "average" of all the cyls.
my thought here is one cyl lean and one rich,this would make the sensor think that its balanced when it is really not.
Also in a lot of dyno cells, they have K type temp senosors on each cyl to aide in balancing the engine.

just a thought.... scary aint it,,,,