Synthetic Oil or not?

Thanks for the link. Great reading there and on other catagories along the left column. It's added to "My Favorites" now.

Anyone used this product? Used in dirtbikes and seen and felt temp changes.


Here's their website:
Two2Cool

Email them if you have any questions, but don't ask them what it's made of.

Post edited by: CoreyClough, at: 2005/10/24 09:19

CoreyClough, don't know anything about TwoCool - can't see how the product can work though...:S Oil additives that affect internal engine friction don't always cause the clutch to slip, but it often happens.

My 900 runs on Mobil 1. It really does not have any appreciable leaks, so the gaskets have survived ok for the last couple of years and close to 20,000 miles.

I bought my 900 from the original owner. He had been using Amsoil synthentic since the bike was new. No leaks, no clutch slippage, no performance problems.
I switched over to Castrol M/C oil at the start of the season this year. It's hot where I ride, so I used 20W-50. I will switch to 10W-40 in about a month... I can ride year-round, but winter temps are in the 50's. I switch to dino oil because I like to change my oil often, and Amsoil is about $8.00 per quart. I believe that frequent, regular oil changes with dino oil is better for the bike than less-frequent changes with synthetic.

I've tried them both and used several different brands too and I don't synthetic is worth the bother or the money in these air-cooled motors. Change the conventional oil every 1500-2000 miles and your bike will run happily for a long, long time.

bemoore - Great article link there. Within your thread there's article links to a multitude of subjects including oils & filters - one of my favored subjects at the moment.

Since I posed this thread, I've been doing some oil info searching and have come up with a very interesting information source as well. From posing the link below, I'm not inferring that AMSOIL is the best oil. I'm simply saying that AMSOIL's internet site has information links within it that all of us may learn something from:
AMSOIL SAE 10W-40 Synthetic High Performance Motorcycle Engine Oil link ...
www.performanceoiltechnology.com/mcf.htm

Due to the seepage issue, I've decided not to make the switch to synthetics on my bike. As many have suggested here, why screw with something that works ... just make frequent oil & filter changes.
My bike decisions:
Oil Filter = Purolator ML filter element
Oil - Petroleum based = Shell Rotella T 15W-40
Air filter element = Emgo @ Z1 (I've decided not to go with a K&N)

I have decided, however, to go synthetic at the 1rst oil change on an '06 GMC Sierra I just purchased.
My truck decisions:
Synthetic Oil = either Mobil-1 (or) AMSOIL
Oil Filter = Purolator Pure One
Air Filter = AC Delco

If anyone wishes to find fault with these choices - please jump in. I'm all ears. My decisions are not etched in stone.

Back when I owned a Taurus SHO, I know that a lot of the guys that liked to mod them ran Amsoil with a very long drain interval (25k/1yr is what Amsoil recommends) and frequent filter changes. They would also send oil samples out for lab testing to look for trace metals that indicate wear. The idea was that by using the same oil for a long time, even the slowest accumulation of foreign material would eventually show up in the oil and be caught by the lab test, which would give advance warning of pending damage.

I'm not sure what the tests cost, since I stuck to dino juice and more regular changes, but anyone spending a good bit on an engine might at least look into whether it makes sense to have oil samples tested periodically.

I'm not saying that it makes sense to do (since I don't know), only that it might make sense to investigate.

CoreyClough wrote:

Thanks for the link. Great reading there and on other catagories along the left column. It's added to "My Favorites" now.

Anyone used this product? Used in dirtbikes and seen and felt temp changes.

Here's their website:
Two2Cool

Email them if you have any questions, but don't ask them what it's made of.<br><br>Post edited by: CoreyClough, at: 2005/10/24 09:19

Yeah, I use that stuff in my dirtbikes and it does work. My wife's CR80 use to overheat in the desert, since using Two2Cool it no longer overheats. I've considered using it in my Kawi, but at $20 an 8oz. bottle it gets pricey.

I've been running AMS oil in all my bikes for 25 years. I've never had a clutch slip, all my bikes run smoother on synthetic. The only leak I have on any bike is on my 76 900 which leaks around the stator leads.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but don't almost all military and aircraft specs call for synthetic oils?

KZCSI

KZCSI wrote:

Please correct me if I'm wrong but don't almost all military and aircraft specs call for synthetic oils?
KZCSI

Aircraft piston engines use mineral based oil and turbine/jet engines use synthetic oil. Some aircraft piston engine oil is semi-synthetic. The one that comes to mind is aeroshell 15w50. I used that in my 1980 kz550 for over 10 years and never had a problem.

KZCSI:
Military and Commercial aircraft use synthetic oil in their gearboxes. But that's not an internal combustion engine, so they're not polluted with hydrocarbons. The gearboxes are driven by the turbine, and run the accessories on the airplane.
Don't know what they're using in their motor pool vehicles.

If you look away for leaks, synthetics oil will be the best choice for a old Kawa engine?`

I use Amsoil in all my Bikes NO ISSUES.