Installing cylinder studs

rocco, your killing me!
when are you going to bring your ass back to ny?
of course you better first use compressed air to clean the bolt holes.
then run a TAP down them.
blow them out again, tap again etc.
wtf man?
you want a 14k motor but keep asking some dumb ass questions.
you all ready know most of the answers to these questions so why do you keep asking?
i have already offered to help you for free many times.
you won't listen to advice given and sometimes seem like you would pefer to argue then accept any advice or tips from fellow members.
wtf man?
i'm not trying to start a flame war or offend you but for crist's sake, just listen to someone who has been there and done that.

tap, blow,tap,blow clean, tap blow etc...........

Steve, I am gonna be in ME for awhile... I just ask the questions because even the easy stuff can mess you up if you are not careful. I have never installed studs before so I want to double check.

Look over this thread, I have advice to use a tap, to use a thread chase, and to do nothing at all. I was hoping I would get clear confirmation of what I already think I know.

I learned the hard way it is easier to remove metal than to put it back, so in this case I am gonna try and not remove any more. So why wouldn't I be looking for a proper sized thread chase?

I am not doubting you know your crap, just asking you to explain it to me.

A word of caution. We don't recommend running a tap in the cases. The reason is because the threads in the case don't go all the way to the bottom. When people screws taps in there, they don't know when to stop, and wind up tapping the hole deeper.

Then they are on the phone to us stating their new studs are too short.

If you must put a tap in there, make sure you don't do this, or you may wind up having to do the old ball bearing trick.

Here is the installation tool;


racetoolz.com/

Thanks for the pic Jay! I just went down to the machine shop and made one!

Does it have the steel ball in it, or are you running the set screw into the top of the stud?

Just running in the set screw. Whats this about a ball? Is there one in that tool?

T_Dub wrote:

Just running in the set screw. Whats this about a ball? Is there one in that tool?

According to description from the web page Jay linked out to there is no ball bearing.

Here is the description:


STUD INSTALLATION TOOL

This tool makes it easy to install cylinder and main bearing studs. No more double-nutting. The set screw contacts the top of the stud. Easy to put on and remove. $15.95 ea.



Not to pick on you Jay, you just made me wonder as well!

APE Jay wrote:

A word of caution. We don't recommend running a tap in the cases. The reason is because the threads in the case don't go all the way to the bottom. When people screws taps in there, they don't know when to stop, and wind up tapping the hole deeper.

Then they are on the phone to us stating their new studs are too short.

If you must put a tap in there, make sure you don't do this, or you may wind up having to do the old ball bearing trick.

ht/

very good advice from a pro. and well heeded. it's cool you take time out to offer advice to people who buy your products.
but if you can't tell from the feel when you are cutting new threads and no longer just cleaning existing threads, maybe you should farm out that part of your rebuild to someone with a little more experiance.

just my .02

some guys like to use red Locktite, some oil. The thing is to provide a barrier between the metal stud and the alum case, so they don’t seize together.
as for finding the right stud height. install them add the block, gaskets and head. do not torque. check the stud heights.
If any are too short, u can either Red Locktite them in at the right height or put something under them. I put some lead fishing weights under mine and squashed them in as i torqued the studs. just keep adding lead until reach the desired height.
I just use the double nut method.