Installing cylinder studs

My APE cylinder studs for my 650 will be delivered in the next week I immagin (ordered from Z1, and we all know how quick their service is!)

So I am now wondering what is the proper way to install them?

Just toss a nut on the top threads and tighten unto the torque spec is reached?

How do you insure all studs are level?

Should I run a tap down the case threads?

Should I use sealent or never seaze on the threads?

ape sells a proper stud installer that works very well. but if you don't have one use two nuts and jam them together and tight down the stud using the top nut. ape studs come with instructions on torque specs follow them to the letter. also don't use a tap use a thread chaser instead. i don't use anything on except engine oil on the threads ape says to tourque the studs to 12- 15 lbsft max you will need to find a 10 by 1.5 mm thread chaser. the kit is a great addition to you engine that is for sure use them on all my hotrod bikes.

Before removing any of the studs... Measure existing heigths off the deck and record accurately for when installing the new studs...

HF Tools also sells a stud remover but as TB mentioned, 2 nuts method worked just fine in my build...

Old Man Rock wrote:

Before removing any of the studs... Measure existing heigths off the deck and record accurately for when installing the new studs...

HF Tools also sells a stud remover but as TB mentioned, 2 nuts method worked just fine in my build...

I picked up a stud puller from e-bay. I got a snap on one, had a mechanic friend kill it (not only can he fix stuff he can break it to if need be!) then the snap on guy gave me a new one.


Not the most honest thing but I got a $90.00 tool for $15 shipped

Thanks for the advice so far, I will look for that thread chase! Do I have to double nut it or could I just use one cylinder nut?

If you get a tap for the stud holes, make sure it's not a pointed type. You want a "bottoming tap", it's got a flat bottom so it won't go deeper than your holes in the case.

If you did use a tap with the point you might pierce the case where an oil gallery is and have endless problems.

Vacuum out any hole you "chase" with the new tap. A blast of air might work, but I like to vacuum tapped holes myself.

hardr0ck68 wrote:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Before removing any of the studs... Measure existing heigths off the deck and record accurately for when installing the new studs...

HF Tools also sells a stud remover but as TB mentioned, 2 nuts method worked just fine in my build...

I picked up a stud puller from e-bay. I got a snap on one, had a mechanic friend kill it (not only can he fix stuff he can break it to if need be!) then the snap on guy gave me a new one.


Not the most honest thing but I got a $90.00 tool for $15 shipped

snap on is snap on.....they price their stuff so high they can eat a couple.....

I know that the snap on man OWNS my buddies kidneys so I don't feel any remorse. I mean yes he is a mechanic so he uses the tools every day, but $1,000 for a torque wrench?!?!? $500 for a socket set?!?! It takes a lot of tire rotations to pay for that stuff!

On top of that my buddy looked at my stud puller and said "that's the cheap one" he explained to me he now has a set of 20 of little socket like things each meant for a specific size stud! I can only imagine how much that set cost him!




hurm;
So now I have one vote bottoming tap, one vote thread chase...

hell... Use a pipe wrench already....

hardr0ck68 wrote:

I know that the snap on man OWNS my buddies kidneys so I don't feel any remorse. I mean yes he is a mechanic so he uses the tools every day, but $1,000 for a torque wrench?!?!? $500 for a socket set?!?! It takes a lot of tire rotations to pay for that stuff!

On top of that my buddy looked at my stud puller and said "that's the cheap one" he explained to me he now has a set of 20 of little socket like things each meant for a specific size stud! I can only imagine how much that set cost him!




hurm;
So now I have one vote bottoming tap, one vote thread chase...

just yank the old ones and squirt a little wd down there and blow em out...put a light down there and verify cleanliness and follow instructions on back of packaging..
double nut them in and use torque wrench to spec....done!

cool, will do!

keith1 wrote:



snap on is snap on.....they price their stuff so high they can eat a couple.....[/quote]

you know what they sat about snap on.

you can buy better but you will never pay more.
just ask bluemeanie