Mega torque from my 1000?

Wouldn't cams like those used for turbo motors be good torque cams? I would think you would want to keep lift up, say around .385-.400 but keep the duration and overlap numbers low. CC's will help a lot in the bottom end also. Basically, make it big cc and keep other parts on the smaller side like Mark said and you should have a good stump puller. Don't open up the ports very much...maybe a clean-up of casting lines, etc....or use big carbs to keep velocity up for crisp throttle response and use gearing to use it like timebomb is talking about.

racer54 wrote:

Wouldn't cams like those used for turbo motors be good torque cams? I would think you would want to keep lift up, say around .385-.400 but keep the duration and overlap numbers low. CC's will help a lot in the bottom end also. Basically, make it big cc and keep other parts on the smaller side like Mark said and you should have a good stump puller. Don't open up the ports very much...maybe a clean-up of casting lines, etc....or use big carbs to keep velocity up for crisp throttle response and use gearing to use it like timebomb is talking about.

where have i heard that combination before? :laugh:

Nelson wrote:

OK so let's say I choose to build a "budget" nitrous engine that's plenty strong. How's this sound?

1075cc 10.5 forged pistons
welded crank
clean up valves/seats but keep all stock head parts.
Nitrous- how much can it take?

I'm trying to buy the least amount of parts possible. Most "bang for the buck"

Add to that, good pins, studs and nuts, copper head gasket, and o'ring block. Then put as much nitrous as you want in it.

You will want one of these....


www.aperaceparts.com/nospage.html

o ring block? you don't mean replacing the whole cylinder block do you?

APE Jay wrote:

o'ring block.

A couple quick questions on copper gaskets:

Will a copper head gasket reduce an engine's tendency to ping? (by allowing more heat from the head to dissipate into the block)

Is it possible to O ring the head? Seen it done on car heads. Just wondering.

so are we talking about machining the block to accept an o-ring? is that for the base gasket?

Standard procedure is to machine a small groove around each cylinder in the top of the block to accept a copper or steel wire. The wire fits in the groove and protrudes by a few thousandths. When the head and gasket are bolted to the block, this wire o-ring seals the cylinder to the head.

Take a look at this link:
www.headgasket.com/faq.html
Has anyone heard of these guys? They make copper head gaskets and sell SS orings (0.004 thick) that don't require machining of the head or block. Wonder if it works?...

Thats sound good. I dont have this build O-ringed though. So far so good.
AS for heat. Pop Yosh said he blasted the motor with Aluminum Oxide. this increased the surface area by 5%. then he painted it with a .0003" thick coat of Kal-Gard . this increased the cooling by 15%.
Also he hogged out the air passages between the cyl's. Then he drilled 3/8" holes through the cyl and head cooling fins to eliminate stagnant air pockets and induce cooling air turbulence. he also drilled holes into the head , around the spark plug holes to increase the surface area available for heat radiance.
I drilled the fins on mine,blasted and painted, years ago. Somethings working for me.
I will email u a build spec on Pop Yosh's, winning GS1000. It explains the added cooling tricks.

Please pardon me if I missed it, but it seems to me that one of the oldest tricks in the book for increased torque is a stroker crank. I'm sure Falicon or some other crank shop would be happy to fix one up.

You are right on the money, but this is a budget build.

mark1122 wrote:

I will email u a build spec on Pop Yosh's, winning GS1000. It explains the added cooling tricks.

Got it Mark. Thanks! 14 pages...This will provide some good reading for the next few days.

Cheers!

Your wellcome. its a good read, and he had to use Kawi parts in that GS to win. lol