1981 KZ1000 CSR valve adjustment problem

I had some leaking cam plugs so I removed the valve cover in preparation to change the plugs and install a new valve cover gasket. I decided that since I had gone this far I might as well check the valves. I measured the clearance and found most of the valves to be too tight. At 20,000 miles, I don't know if they have ever been adjusted. I took the shims out one at a time and recorded their values so that I would know what shims I would need. I borrowed a genuine Kawasaki tool and had no real problems until I got to #3 exhaust valve. When the cam lobe depresses the valve bucket the bucket goes below the surface of the head. There appears to be a raised area around the hole that the others don't have. For the life of me, I can't get the valve tool to catch on the bucket. If it did, I don't think the cam lobe would come up high enough for me to get the shim out. Has anyone else run into this? Am I gonna have to remove the cam to get it out? Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Robert

I've had this problem, and in some cases it is necessary to loosen off the cam caps.
It's not really a big deal though, when done properly it takes no time at all.

You will need an inch-pounds torque wrench.

Loosen them incrementally in small amounts at a time. Its not necessary to completely remove the caps or the screws, just get everything loose enough to tilt the cams from one side to another to remove the shims.

Once done, put a generous bead of thread locker on the screw threads, then tighten them down incrementally till the are just snug by hand. Then torque them to 85 inch-pounds, then torque them to 95 inch-pounds, and you're done!

Cheers, good luck.

Yeah, listen to the gun man, DON'T follow the manual...or you will regret it.

TeK9iNe wrote:

I've had this problem, and in some cases it is necessary to loosen off the cam caps.
It's not really a big deal though, when done properly it takes no time at all.

You will need an inch-pounds torque wrench.

Loosen them incrementally in small amounts at a time. Its not necessary to completely remove the caps or the screws, just get everything loose enough to tilt the cams from one side to another to remove the shims.

Once done, put a generous bead of thread locker on the screw threads, then tighten them down incrementally till the are just snug by hand. Then torque them to 85 inch-pounds, then torque them to 95 inch-pounds, and you're done!

That seems to be reasonably simple. Now, next question: If you can't get the feeler guage in at all using a .05 mm guage, is it safe to assume that is sero clearance and you need to subtract the amount of clearance you need from the size of the shim that is in there in order to get the proper shim? What amount of clearance do I need to shoot for?
Ok, that's two questions. Hope I'm not wearing you guys out.

With cam lobe pointed away from bucket, will the existing shim turn? If so, there's at least some minimal clearance. But less than the .05mm feeler gauge. So somewhere between zero and .05mm.

After removing the too thick shim and determining its size, could try replacing it with a .05mm thinner shim, and re-check the clearance.

If the existing won't turn at all, it's zero or less clearance. After removing the way too thick shim and determining its size, could try replacing it with a .10mm thinner shim, and re-check the clearance.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

With cam lobe pointed away from bucket, will the existing shim turn? If so, there's at least some minimal clearance. But less than the .05mm feeler gauge. So somewhere between zero and .05mm.

After removing the too thick shim and determining its size, could try replacing it with a .05mm thinner shim, and re-check the clearance.

If the existing won't turn at all, it's zero or less clearance. After removing the way too thick shim and determining its size, could try replacing it with a .10mm thinner shim, and re-check the clearance.

Good Luck!

Perfect!

Not to step on any toes and to eliminate the chance of redundant procedure. If the shim spins but has less than.05mm clearance, go with the .10mm thinner shim first. That's going to give you a very acceptable clearance of at least .101mm and most likely .110mm which is well within spec.Here's my tips.I run my clearances between .09mm and .12mm and don't mess with them till they're .05 or below. This maximizes lift,lift=volume,volume is power! I also use a strong magnet on a telescoping handle to aid in the removal of the shims.Long sharp tweezers and hemostats are also handy!Make sure you cover the cam chain opening to the crank or you might need that magnet to go fishing for shims! The manual suggests clearance checks every 5000 miles.