header came loose

Hey there, I got a problem. I was cruising around town the other day when I noticed my bike sounded like a beast! I knew this wasn't right. Turns out, the nut holding the header pipe on shook loose. I made it home, found replacement nuts and tried to repair the fix. However, even with the new nuts, the pipe is still loose? Is there another part that fell out that seals the connection of the pipes and engine that I dont know about? Again, the nuts on that big hunk of metal that holds the header pipe on are tight, but the pipe is still loose? Is this an easy repair or is a recalibration of somesort needed.
I rode it like this for a while home, would having an open header effect the engine, does it need to be tuned again? Thanks in advance for the help!

I'm not sure about your model, but on mine there are two split collars that go behind the flange (big hunk of metal that holds the header pipe on ) and push the header into the cylinder head. When the nuts come loose and the flange moves forward, these split collars will fall out. Has happened to me before as well. :whistle:

You might be lucky and still have one or both down on top of the exhaust where the pipes come together.

Looking at the parts diagram at the Kawasaki site, it does show the two split collars (part # 92027) for your bike (see pic below). You can check the parts dia. at this site for other info: Kawasaki info

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Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/03/20 08:26

there is also supposed to be a copper gasket in between the pipe and head

Yeah I looked around on the bike, and there were no other parts hanging loose so I guess I got to find some new gaskets. But after I get them and fix this baby up, everything is fine? Nothing could be messed up because of this? No additional tuning is needed? Thanks alot guys!!!

Your bike should be fine when you get it together.
Mark

is there a real need for that collar, or would the two split gaskets suffice. Because I don't think I'll be able to move the pipe enough to slip the collar on. And I dont feel comfortable taking the whole exhaust system off just yet.

As I've been looking around on this bike ( i just bought it last week ) it looks like there are no collars around any of the other headers. And the gaskets look kinda crummy. Is the investment in new gaskets worth it?

I just put a 4-in-1 on this weekend and it was the first time the original exhaust has come off. The original headers have a "collar" welded or fit on the end where it contacts the head (you can see this on the diagram above). Order of assembly from the head is: head, copper gasket, header, split collar, collar that goes over studs, nuts. All of those parts are needed to ensure a solid fit and no leaks. If the copper gaskets look a bit crappy but are not cut or mangled, they can be cleaned up with a wire wheel and a drill. Use a touch of grease on the gasket to make sure it doesn't fall out as you wrestle the header in place You very well may have to loosen or pull the rear footpeg pipe mounts to move the header away from the head to get to the copper gaskets. Good luck

Post edited by: oldkawE, at: 2006/03/21 06:32

ok, sounds helpful. thanks.

Now, if I remove my exhaust headers, and remove the exhaust system completely will that effect anything? Becuase if I'm going to set up one header pipe, I might as well do all of them while I'm at it. And to do that I have to remove everything.

So my next question is, if I take the whole exhaust system off, put all the new parts (collars, gaskets) in place, and slap that baby back on like it was, everything will be ok??? I shouldn't have to adjust anything and the engine should run like butter? No further tuning will be needed?

Oh yeah, is there any benefit of having a 4-1 vs a 2-2? just curious. Thanks!!!!

New gaskets are recomended when you remove and replace your exhaust, but the split collars can be reused. You will have to get new/used collars for the ones that are missing.

I shouldn't have to adjust anything and the engine should run like butter? No further tuning will be needed?

Just reassemble it all, and she should run as she did before, no tuning needed.

ok, I got new gaskets and new collars. There is a flat side and a rounded side on the gaskets. Which side goes against the engine head, flat I assume? rounded forms into the pipe? Then I slap on the collars, and tighten the clamp and presto, job done. Sounds easy enough. Now its time to actually do it. Any advice on doing this anything I should watch out for while removing my exhaust system. I'm a newby remember, but I love learning this stuff, I love it!

Oh yeah, is there any benefit of having a 4-1 vs a 2-2? just curious. Thanks!!!!

Well, the 4-1 is lighter and enables a bit more power perhaps. After that it's personal preference - looks and sound. Carbs need re-jetting with the 4-1 which you may or may not want to tackle (I spent the money on a Dynojet kit which so far seems to work great). My original pipes were pretty rusted up for cylinders 2 and 3 and underneath and I really liked the looks and wanted "the sound" of the 4-1.