First steps? Clutch or something else?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWould suggest obtaining an official Kawasaki Factory Service Manual. Here's one of several current ebay listings. Other members may recommend alternative sources.



The clutch push-rod adjustment may resolve the slippage issue, and is a routine maintemance item which often provides a quick and easy fix. This is different from cable slack adjustments at the lever and at mid-cable.

The vacuum petcock should be turned to the ON position (lever covering the ON marking) while the bike is parked overnight in the garage. The ON position is supposed to prevent fuel flow when the engine isn't running.

A common cause for the fuel odor is fuel drizzle on the garage floor underneath the bike from open ends of overflow tubes which are attached to nipples on bottoms of the carb float bowls. A properly functioning vacuum petcock should prevent such fuel drizzle when left in the ON position while the engine isn't running.

Good Luck!

tomatoe tomtato...shut off the gas....and report back if it still drips......push rod....clutch actuator...bike...motorcycle....

I don't know about the KZ650 but can't think it would be much different than my KZ900 so I'll open my pie hole just the same.... :blush:

Synthetic oil will be a tad more slippery, in some older beat up engines can even cause leaks to occur...

In a nut shell, synthetic design is basically for increased heat dissipation of the engine components and longevity due to decreased break down in the oil itself, thus increased lubrication...

Ok, with that said...
As already mentioned, follow the push rod and clutch adjustments in your manual first off.... If still slipping then continue...

How old-how many miles are on the clutch plates?

If unknown, here's a copy of my manuals tolerance & specifications & measurements that can be made of the clutch springs, friction and steel plates... Your manual should have something similar...

Maybe it will help, my be not....

My overflow tubes are brittle and filled with what looks like dirt. Which item on z1 replaces them?

Any inexpensive hose should be okay that fits snugly onto the nipples from bottom of float bowls.

Should be in stock at local auto supply, hardware store, hobby shop, home supply, etc.

Would carry along a short section of the old hose (and some part it fits onto) to obtain the correct inside diameter. And get 4 times the length of the hose needed for the left (#1 carb) so you'll have plenty to cut all four hoses.

Good Luck!

Well I tried adjusting the clutch for the first time today. The first time I over-tightened which I figured out meant the clutch was always pulled in. I re-adjusted about 3 or 4 times after that with tests rides and while I think it improved, it's still not acceptable. I could not find what the push rod was in my manual for adjustment. Replacement seems like the next option... correct me if wrong about that.

Which parts exactly from z1 do I need to order? How long does the clutch replacement take? What tools do I need?
I'm thinking this is what I need... please verify
(7 of these) www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1612

this

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1613

and these

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319

Let me know if these are the right parts and what tools I may need. I'm a novice :blush:

Also in this (mega)thread I have a problem with what seems to be vacuum leak from my searches here. When the bike first starts, and until fully warmed up (10+ miles), the idle is great. Revs great and idles at about 1k. When warm however the bike will idle at 2-3k, and if reved will continue soaring after I've cut back on the throttle, and will need to engage the clutch if I want it to stop in a timely manor. Basically the hotter the day the worse it is. Days that are ~70f don't seem so bad. I'm thinking replacing all the rubber parts on the bike like ( www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=444 - still don't know where these actually are on the bike also www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=443 ) will help. Also there is oil coming from the top gasket of the bike, I think the carb. Not a lot just enough to be noticeable, slowly seeping out. This may also cause it? How difficult is this gasket to replace?

Lots of beginner questions here guys and I appreciate your insight and patience.

Here is the clutch adjustment procedure from my 650 FSM...

Pretty simple...

#1 he has a vac petcock so he cannot turn off his petcock.
#2 if gas is getting into his oil it could be his clutch problem.
#3 his hoses are hosed, he smells gas and the bike is running funky.

Fix the hoses and locate the gas leak. Make sure the petcock is shutting off. Make sure the carbs are ok and not overflowing or gummed. Start bike and get it running right.

THEN do an oil change and adjust clutch.

That would be my plan...yours may differ.

SID,


Replacing the clutch is a pretty big job for a novice, especially the first time.
don't plan on getting it done in a couple of hours. Once done though, it will be a rewarding experience.

However, before committing to that, be absolutely certain that the adjustment procedure posted above has been followed EXACTLY. A common nube problem is to skip the adjustment in illustration B30, as it is not an obvious one to those not familiar with these old bikes. This is what is refered to as the "pushrod adjustment." It is also the most important, for if this adjustment is significatntly off, adjusting just the calble will be a waste of time. The adjustments must be made in the propoer order and in the method described in the manual for good results. Besides, it is much easier than replacing a clutch that is ok, and the adjustment procedure will have to be done anyway after replacement, so a little practice will be a good thing.

Old, cracked rubber is bad in any situation. It should be replaced as soon as time and finances allow. I would replace them in this order - those related to fuel, those related to brakes, those related to oil, the rest. If the petcock (fuel valve mounted to the bottom of the tank) is working properly and not leaking, I'd be inclined to leave it alone. If the line from there to the carbs is in any way suspect, trash it and install a high quality line with a high quality inline filter. Using a small mirror, a flashlight and a tiny midget if one is available, inspect the short hoses that connect the carbs to each other. If they are bad, the carbs will need to come off to replace them. To inspect the integrity of the intake manifolds and the hoses between the carbs and airbox, start the enginne and spray each of them carefully and liberally with brake cleaner. If the idle changes significantly, there is an air leak. Replacing these requires carb removal.

The oil leak you mention is most likely comming from the valve cover gasket and or cam plugs. There have been a couple of recent threads abotu thes. Do a search for them.

The idle problem you mention could indeed be casued by air leaks, but may also be the result of a poorly operating timing advancer or crud in the carbs.

The solutions to these problems are within the reach of a newbie who has a great deal of patience, good tools, a factory shop manual,and lots of help and opinions from the folks around here.

shitimdumb wrote:

... The oil I put in it was mobile 1 15-30 I believe....

Assuming that's what you put in.... Wrong oil.
If it's an Energy Conserving oil, then it's doubly wrong.

.... The chain seems to have a lot of slack in it...

Be sure to adjust the chain as per the manual.

I read on a post a while back that you can remove the clutch cover w/ bike on the side stand w/0 having to drain oil. Is this true....?

"I read on a post a while back that you can remove the clutch cover w/ bike on the side stand w/0 having to drain oil. Is this true..."...

In my case... YES... but I had modified my kick stand shorter due to my conversion rim changes...

Same time, roll the bike front & rear tires up on a 2x4 (2" higher) then lean on the kick stand... This should gain you enough lean where you can open the clutch cover with minimal oil spillage...

Keep in mind, also depends on where you filled the oil levels up to...

TIP: Have a new gasket in hand for when finished with any clutch plate/spring measurements/replacements....

OMR