REPOST 78 KZ650B VALVE ADJUSTMENT- advice needed

Hey Guys,

Any advice would be much appreciated.

I need to adjust my valves, the cam chain is out and I've been following the Clymer manual.

Three of the plugs were white, one was black. After measuring, about half the valves need to be adjusted because there wasn't enough clearance.

So the next thing I was going to do is buy shims in the next smallest increments.

Does this sound right? Is there anything I should look out for?

Thanks,

J

you need to figure out which shims you need,, just going to the next smallest size still may not be right.
there is a chart here someplace, just dont remember where, but if nothing else, measure your shims and calc, the right size.
also, be vary careful installing the cams, make sure to follow the torque specs, and clean everything well,, you dont want ot strip out the threads in the head, if it does happen, heili coils will need to be installed

Samo604 wrote:

Hey Guys,

Any advice would be much appreciated.

I need to adjust my valves, the cam chain is out and I've been following the Clymer manual.

Three of the plugs were white, one was black. After measuring, about half the valves need to be adjusted because there wasn't enough clearance.

So the next thing I was going to do is buy shims in the next smallest increments.

Does this sound right? Is there anything I should look out for?

Thanks,

J

In the future, carefully measure clearances before doing anything else. Write them all down and then you can measure each shim and calculate the one you need to get the clearance right.

BSKZ650 wrote:

you need to figure out which shims you need,, just going to the next smallest size still may not be right.
there is a chart here someplace, just dont remember where, but if nothing else, measure your shims and calc, the right size.
also, be vary careful installing the cams, make sure to follow the torque specs, and clean everything well,, you dont want ot strip out the threads in the head, if it does happen, heili coils will need to be installed

+1

I would spring the $15 for a factory manual. I would not trust Clymers on this. If you get the cam timing off you will bend the valves and then you have a major repair.

Thanks guys - Just to follow up;

I don't know the exact size of the shim to get, because when I measure the clearance, there was none. I couldn't get the feeler gauge in.

What should I do now?

Also, what do you recommend cleaning the cam with?

Thanks, this is the first time I've attempted this.

If you have no measurable clearance, the only accurate way to procede is to remove the shim, see what size it is, then install a shim 2 or 3 sizes smaller, reassemble and recheck with hopefully measurable clearance to figure what is the right shim. You can try to spin the bucket on the tight valves. If the bucket spins freely it means there is at least some valve clearance. Start by going down 2 sizes. If the bucket doesn't spin, start at 3 sizes. I've written this before, but for anyone doing this job on a KZ650, there is no need to foul up your cam timing when removing the cams to swap shims. The way to do it is work with one cam at a time, unbolt the cambolts, carefully lift the cam out of position keeping all chain slack between the cams. Keep the chain tight going down into the engine. Lift the cam and lay it in the center of the engine. Gives plenty of room to remove the buckets and swap shims. When done carefully lift the cam back into position. The key is to be sure and keep all camchain slack between the cams, chain always tight going down in the engine. Bolt in the cam, move to the other cam and do the same thing. If all was done correctly the cams have not bean altered at all. Recheck timing marks to be 100% sure though.

RonKZ650 wrote:

If you have no measurable clearance, the only accurate way to procede is to remove the shim, see what size it is, then install a shim 2 or 3 sizes smaller, reassemble and recheck with hopefully measurable clearance to figure what is the right shim. You can try to spin the bucket on the tight valves. If the bucket spins freely it means there is at least some valve clearance. Start by going down 2 sizes. If the bucket doesn't spin, start at 3 sizes. I've written this before, but for anyone doing this job on a KZ650, there is no need to foul up your cam timing when removing the cams to swap shims. The way to do it is work with one cam at a time, unbolt the cambolts, carefully lift the cam out of position keeping all chain slack between the cams. Keep the chain tight going down into the engine. Lift the cam and lay it in the center of the engine. Gives plenty of room to remove the buckets and swap shims. When done carefully lift the cam back into position. The key is to be sure and keep all camchain slack between the cams, chain always tight going down in the engine. Bolt in the cam, move to the other cam and do the same thing. If all was done correctly the cams have not bean altered at all. Recheck timing marks to be 100% sure though.

Right on the Money!

If your worried about the timing do as explained above. its not hard to set the timing and all again once you are done either. Measure all the clearances (if there is any) and record on a paper. then when you remove the shims and measure them with your vernier calliper (SP?)($20 at parts store) write this info down in your table/chart too so you know what shim was in there at the clearance you measured. then go through your shims and move them around to their new home. you wont have to buy 8 shims.......right away.......hopefully because some of the ones you have will work for another valve.

not hard to do, just teedious and repetative.

try a local cycle shop for the 13mm shims you need. i found a small hole in the wall shop an hour away, he let me trade shims with him and it was well worth the hour drive not to have to wait for the mail every time i needed a shim or two. because only if youre extremely lucky will you get it on the first try!!

make sure you follow the tightning/loosening sequence for the cam bolts too. probably should get a 1/4 inch/lb torque wrench if u dont have one already. $14-$20 at harbor freight.

good man doing this on your own too, you'll save a boat load of $$ and get some new tools if you dont have them already. good luck man
-patrick-

Samo604 wrote:

Thanks guys - Just to follow up;

I don't know the exact size of the shim to get, because when I measure the clearance, there was none. I couldn't get the feeler gauge in.

What should I do now?

+1 on Ron's post: See if you can turn the lifter with your fingers. If so, you probably have some clearance which is too small for the feeler gauge.

You can install a shim two sizes smaller and remeasure then you should get a measurable clearance.

Once you have the shims out, I strip them clean with acetone and then measure the thickness and write it on each shim with a Sharpie so it's easy to see. You can read your clearances, see which ones need changing and what size shims they need. Some times you can swap some around to get most of them happy.

Samo604 wrote:

Also, what do you recommend cleaning the cam with?

carburteor cleaner (acetone) or degreaser spray.

Here is a link to a Haynes manual that has a shim chart in it: forums.kz650.info/index.php?topic=1833.0