Worn out cam chain

I just got my bike back from the shop and found out that my cam chain is worn out.

This is causing the cam timing to be too far advanced and making the bike run hot, and a few other problems.

I have a couple of questions...

1) Would it be possible to replace the cam chain without splitting the cases?

2) Would it be possible to use slotted cam chain sprockets?

First, to answer simply, it would be a bad idea to use slotted cam sprockets. You would end up with the cam chain jumping a tooth and you will bend your valves. The only way to replace your cam chain is to pull the engine and split the cases.

I've talked with a few service techs who said it is possible to replace the cam chain without splitting the case...Iron Pony sells a chain breaker and rivetor that supposedly well work on cam chains...Need to get a master link from somewhere though...

Hyvo chains don't use a master link. You need to find a new service tech to talk to. The older 903/1015 engines use bicycle type chains and these can be replaced by use of a master link.

Can the chain be measured and tell us how im wanting to check mine too .But i have no spec or pictures, in my clymer book mines the bicycle type.:side:

You could just look at the Z1 Enterprises website, there is a cam chain and master link listed there for a 89 KZ1000P (same one fits the J motors).

Direct link to the cam chain and link at Z1

It can be done and I did change it in my ´83 ELR. It´s not even difficult. You cut the old chain, attache the new one with the master link to the old chain and carefully pull it over. Do not let it get any slack when pulling the new chain. You might drop the master link down to crankcase and so on. If this happens you just open the oil pan and do it that way.

Sorry, misspoke re the master link and hyvo chain. I had never seen one and have always split the cases to replace the cam chain. I have used a master link on the older style bicycle chains and if you use a die grinder, it is easy to grind off the ends of the old chain. If you have the top end off the bike, you can pull the chain over to the side of the bike and use a motor mount or something to provide a backstop for pinning the new chain. I have used a punch to stake the sides of the masterlink pins so they don't come loose. It would be more difficult to do this without removing the top end so I would suggest buying the master link tool shown if you are going to do it without pulling the head and cylinder block.

To comment on measuring a chain for wear... there MAY be some way to do this if the chain were removed from the bike... like counting 10 links and measuring the length against some spec but with the chain on the bike, this wouldn't be practical. The best way to see if the chain is worn (other than it making a racket even after adjustment) is to pull your cam cover off. Also take off the points cover. Remove your spark plugs. Use a 17mm socket on the inner nut on the advance mechanism bolt. Turn the crank in both directions and if you see the chain bunch any on the idler assembly (up at the top of the cylinder head), the chain is worn... you might want to adjust the cam chain tension PRIOR to doing this to ensure that you weren't just viewing a lack of normal maintenance as the cam chain tension adjustment is a standard maintenance issue on some KZ models.

Replacing the cam chain wasn't bad, even for a first timer like myself. I bought my cam chain, a couple of master links and a link installation tool from Z1. I later used the same tool for the master link on my new x ring rear drive chain. I just used those plastic lock ties to link the old/new cam chains together, pulled them through and installed a link. On both my chains, cam and rear drive, I backed the opposite side then swat the shoulders of the master link pins, distorting them and stoping them from coming apart.

Another pic

The tool also allowed me to push pins out of the chain links, as I think you can see in the first pic, with a chunk of the cam chain separated.