Streightening a twisted KZ1000/1100 Crank

All of my cranks have the 17mm pins. I am not quite sure if there were any benefits gained by going to the 18mm pins in 83.

Hi Jack, you remember the KZ 4 cylinder, 2 stroke, diesel, single cam, blower motor on nitro!!!

How many of these guys reading are saying to themselves? WTF?

Mangus was a character! He built that frame himself, with help from Puppet down the street, low budget, front spoked wheel. After that engine attempt.
I was with him at Atco, NJ, in 90-91 when he made his first 200 MPH pass. He only ran 80% nitro, hardly burned pistons.
Trett and McBride put new pistons in every pass.

Marty from Buffalo

a set of v-blocks, two dial indicators, and a 5 pound brass hammer and some patience and when it's straight take it to guy that specilizes in fine tig work he will have the right sized torch to do the job and hook up your ground clamp as close to the work as possible and move it with every weld so you don't cause arcing between the bearing races.

Dial indicators 9Which i do have) are going too far. I will just use the 17mm rod trick.

z1kzonly wrote:

Hi Jack, you remember the KZ 4 cylinder, 2 stroke, diesel, single cam, blower motor on nitro!!!

How many of these guys reading are saying to themselves? WTF?

Mangus was a character! He built that frame himself, with help from Puppet down the street, low budget, front spoked wheel. After that engine attempt.
I was with him at Atco, NJ, in 90-91 when he made his first 200 MPH pass. He only ran 80% nitro, hardly burned pistons.
Trett and McBride put new pistons in every pass.

Marty from Buffalo

Elmer never changed pistons at the track. Complete motors, but not pistons.