Rookie about to start a rebuild. 76" KZ900

I'm a rookie to this but love to learn and have been. Thanks to all of the great guys, and girls,(if your out there?) who contribute to the threads. I'm planning on rebuilding my engine 76' KZ900 with nearly 40,000 miles on her starting this next week after the carburator rebuild is out of the way. As well as the rest of my bike eventualy. But this is about the engine. I've been doing lots and lots of homework. I have the clymer manual, and then ordered the Kawasaki Shop Manual due to advice given on this sight. I have two torque wrenches coming. One that measures in foot pounds, and one that measures in inch pounds. A set of fealer gages, and a micrometer. I'll need to acquire more tools for this. but there all mentioned in the manuals. What I'd like to know is. What parts should I most definitely replace while I have her apart. I have already ordered a complete gasket set from my local Kawasaki dealer. The Cam chain is another thing I know of threw reading threads hear. Thanks to timebomb33. I've learned allot from you already timebomb. Just wondering if there is anything ells that's a (might as well replace now that you got her apart) type deal. Possible tools not mentioned in the manuals that would make the job go smoother would be great to. Thanks every one for contributing to the sight. Past present and future. Your a big help already. Aloha, Gary Spears.

Good choice of bike... :laugh:

A decent set of metric sockets and wrenches.... A set of 4 vacuum gauges will also be required available @ Z1.

In your rebuild, buy a complete gasket and oil ring/seal set... Most likely, they have been in there since 1976! :ohmy: All available @ Z1.

Last but not least, a digital camera is required.... :huh: you say.... Start a project post for inserting images on your progress. We're picture whores here... We just love them.... :dry:

Kinda weird but that's the way it is... After awhile, you too will be one of us in that regard.... It becomes an obsession. If married/GF, kiss the wife/GF good bye for a year or two.... :laugh:

Kids college fund, hell, they didn't want to go to college anyways so you might as well spend the $$$...

OMR

I agree a very good choice of bike. I may be a little bias. Looking forward to following your project. Welcome...Russ

dont worry about buying your internal engine parts till you get the motor apart and scrubbed down really good to check parts out.i definately suggest acam chain and have crank pins welded

OMR wrote:

Last but not least, a digital camera is required....

Another reason for the camera is you will want to take careful pictures of each area just before you disassemble it and use the pictures as reference when reassembling. For example: the book will tell you where to position the ignition timing marks and the camshaft marks when installing the cams. If you position the timing and cams that way before disassembling and take closeup pictures of them you will have a better reference to look at when reassembling. I also have found this method helpful in documenting wiring, cables, etc. before removing because the book is a bit vague on the routing of things.

One other hint: either get a parts manual for your model (I've had luck finding them on eBay) or become familiar with using Kawasaki.com's parts diagrams. These can be helpful not only when acquiring parts, but also as a reference when reassmbling things. For example: Did that bolt have a lock wahser and flat washer or only the lock washer? The diagrams show that level of detail. Ed

a couple 5 gal buckett lids up side down to throw the greasy parts in as your doing each section.....a large size zip lock bags box and a sharpie to record each bags contents and a directional arrow ect....a hone stone...toilit brush....clean floor to find the clips that shoot twenty feet.....
a note pad glued to a sized peice of plywood with a hole to hang it by your bench so you can write reminders of where stuff goes as you tear down.....a good radio station with no commercials...every rag on the property.... piece of medium grit and fine grit sand paper stapled to some 1x3 blocks..........one case of sugar free rockstars......lava hand soap...orange hand cleaner.....a good wife/or girlfreind helps too.........pictures are a must....welcome...peace craig

good luck take your time i know you will get itchy to get it done but do it right and if you have any questions that i maybe able to help with feel free to get in touch anytime. and don't cut corners it will only end in tears.

Will do my friend I look forward to starting. Getting my ducks in order now. Aloha.

Great advice brother. That's what I was looking for. Just little hints.Aloha.

You all rock. Thanks for the help. I'll be looking into The welding of the rocker pins. I don't know why I would want them welded. But I'm about to go and find out. I'll be taking all advice very seriously, and will do as suggested. Thanks allot guys. Gary

plummen said crankpins and it is something that is done when your building hot-rod kz engines. just a precautionthat is taken to prevent twisting of the crank under heavy loads like hard launches or spinning the the tire then getting traction all off the sudden.

The biggest output comes from the piston kit. The compression bump from 8 to 10 and the bigger main jet in the carb. More fuel and air under alot more pressure. Now you want to go to the head. Replace cam roller gears and cam chain, then check out the head. Remove some valves and check the guides for loose wobble and specs. Check condition and shape of valves seats and valve faces. Replace valve guide seals. Intall new springs. Porting options and others are available from many sources. Stock cams can be degreed to increase low end and midrange torque. Where it'll roast the back tire with the twist of the throttle. You'll want to check out the dogs and recesses on the the two gears that make up second and examine the shift fork. They can't be rounded at all or you'll have problems with it popping out of second gear. Replace the rotor bolt so it don't break tightening the rotor it's a weak bolt and can't keep the rotor tight enough. After checking the bearings over, all internal components, installing the oil seal kit and are ready to seal it up, there are some bolt options for the case bolts, the studs for the crank bearing support, a stronger crank bearing support, and the cylinder studs up top. These things not really that expensive to build and parts are abundant right now so go for it now and do it right along the way. Even without the top end kit the bottom end will be solid and leak free. It's the bottom ends of these motors that run forever. You can change top ends in hours. All the top end stuff can be done quickly and efficiently and not all that much cost.