Another Rotor Removal Problem

Thanks Gas. At least I know it works with bearings. I was thinking of cutting through out beyond the crank, and then scoring it the rest of the way. I could always rotate it and score it multiple times. I think that's a good next step. Time to fire up the angle grinder and make some sparks!:evil:

have you tried using the propane tourch on the rotor and some liquid nitrogen on the crank stub?? they sell the liquid nitrogen at wally world, call it air in a can,for cleaning computers,just turn it upside down for the liquid,gets really cold.

At the paper mill I work at they have a tank of Co2 that they use to freeze shafts with as they heat the bearing with a rosebud

just a thoughtB)

IT'S OFF!!!! :woohoo:

Thanks for all of the ideas. A dremmel and a chisel finally did it. I'll attach a picture, but don't look if you have a weak stomach :sick: I have never had to butcher anything like this, but I had no choice in this case.

The only mark on the crank is a tiny nick on the very end. I'll stone down the high points and it won't affect anything.

Now, since I have now heated and beat the hell out of that poor crank, will it be OK? It is welded, so hopefully that will help. Does the lateral movement have the potential to damage anything? Bearings, seals, the cases, anything like that at all?? I really don't want to tear down the bottom end, it hasn't been that many miles since it was put together. What do you guys think??






OK, here it is....



It's hard to tell from the picture, but there are 3 slots the size of the one that is showing. I cut it with the dremmel and spread it with a chisel.

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/03/08 19:38

try kicking motor over with key off and listen for any funny noises. goodluck,happy wrenching!

Put a dial indicator on the crank and turn it over. Or eye ball it with some thing attached to the case for reference.

Well that just about settles it then, I guess I'm gonna cut if the bearing doesn't work. How many cut-off wheels did that thing eat off the dremel? I was thinking my 4 1/2 in grinder, but now that I think about it, that probably won't fit.

I used 3 or 4 wheels. I wanted to use my 4" but couldn't find the cutting wheels (recent move). Even the dremmel really didn't fit so I had to cut in a radius pattern. The dremmel handle bottoms out against the outer part of the rotor and I just rotated it in toward the engine. The tiny cut off wheels aren't big enough to cut straight in because they won't reach. It may be easier to cut off the large part of the rotor with the 4" and then use the dremmel or 4" for cutting the tapered part. You'll see what I'm trying to say when you get started. It's very hard to explain in words. Keep us posted with plenty of pics! Good Luck.

It's been a while since I posted about this, but it's also been a while since I tried to work on my KZ. I got really frustrated and gave up for a while. I just bought a slide hammer with the 2 jaw puller attachment.

I also got some new cutting wheels for the dremel. I started to cut with the 4 1/2 inch grinder but it barely fit.

We'll see this weekend how it goes.

I was wondering how you made out. Just be very careful not to cut into the crank. You should be able to get the cut very close and then split the rotor. If I had to do over, I think I would get a good set of torches to apply the heat while the rotor puller bolt is tensioned. I don't think the propane torch was any where near enough heat. I was lucky enough to get it off the way I did and not hurt the crank. Good luck and keep us posted!

So how the bike comming along?

Post edited by: Snakebyte, at: 2006/05/30 11:43

HELP I CANT FIND MY CLYMER... I WAS FINALY ABLE TO REMOVE THE ROTOR BOLT...NOW HAVEN TROUBLE WITH THE ROTOR. Q. IS THE ROTOR THREADED ON TO THE CRANK OR JUST SITTEN ON THERE?
IE DO I HAVE TO TWIST AND PULL OF JUST HAMMER AND CUS?
ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU
MUCHUS GRQCIUS NO TANGO DENARAO AFTER THAT NEW ROTOR...

What make/year/model? (read my sig)