Another Rotor Removal Problem

OK, I'll try to post some pictures, but it usually takes several tries. Here goes!:S

first try!! how did that happen??

You can see the round holes have squared off from the puller jaws.



Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/03/07 18:03

Here's one with the puller attached:

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/03/07 18:05

And finally, a picture of the beast itself!

thats a handy little item you got there,theres been times i was so pissed i would have spent $750.00 for the tool to make it all go away!:whistle: is the crank chewed up?

I can't tell if the crank's OK or not, the rotor is still on there. The slide hammer sure looks like it should work, but no go so far. I think I need more heat!!:evil:

Stupid question, but, have you tried using a two or three jaw puller?
You put the crank bolt part way in the end of the crank and set the puller bolt against it. The jaws grip on the back of the rotor and you tighten the puller bolt to create pressure. once you've done that you can hammer the rotor with a rubber mallet or plastic hammer to create a shock (just like a slide hammer). If that doesnt work try applying a combination of heat, pressure and shock. Too much heat and the crank will expand at the same rate as the rotor.

I started with the proper tool, but it broke off in the rotor, so a regular puller won't work now. There wouldn't be anything to leverage against since the broken off puller is threaded into the rotor and it would be pulling against itself. Before it broke though, I tried heat, puller, and hammer all together. It took several days of patient work before getting into this big mess. The removal tool is stuck in the rotor and I have drilled it and tried easy outs with no luck. I think it's stuck for good. I just hope I didn't already drill into the crank :blink:

Post edited by: 79MKII, at: 2006/03/07 22:15

No mine still isn't out. In fact my thread is towards the bottom of the page.

As far as cutting, I was thinking of cutting across the center of the rotor where the threads are with an angle grinder and cut-off wheel. I figured it might be enough to open the taper up so it would release. I am hesitant to do so since it will ruin the threads and eliminate ther possibility of doing it that way later if it doesn't work, but since you have already eliminated that possibility maybe you could try that.

I was thinking cut-off wheel so as not to add a bunch of heat like a torch. If it works for you, maybe I'll give it a try.

My thought is to make the cut like this.

I like that idea, and it may be my next move. I would probably only cut the outer portion though, because the crank is in there too. I have another rotor that I can measure so I am only cutting the part that I believe is beyond the crank end. I just don't know if that will allow the taper to open enough or if it needs to be cut all of the way like you have drawn. I'm just worried that I would trash the crank by cutting it. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the input.

Try a little heat, that allways works for me.

I'd go with dtturnz picture. I had bushings in my swingarm that WOULD NOT come out last year. I tried heat, the wax trick, everything, multiple times. All that would happen was the metal lip of the bushing, inside the swingarm, would chip off. Finnaly I took a hack saw blade off the tool, threaded it through the swingarm, reattached the blade and cut north, south, east, west flutes or grooves into the bushings, close but not quite through the material. I removed the blade, inserted a long punch and with a few whacks, the bushings came out like nothing. I think that the cutting weakened or relieved the bushing pressure enough to break the bond.