Cam Chain Rattle

I have a decent rattle in my motor and idle and all through the rpm range, when i rev it up the kerker kinda blocks it out but if you listen close you can tell its still there, now im guessing that its the cam chain but I have not tried to tighten it yet, problem is the original bolt is missing and it has a longer one with a lock nut in its place, now i know the process for setting the tensioner im just curious because i know your supposed to put the original smaller bolt back in after you set it in the motor but will i be okay having the larger bolt tightened against the tensioner arm? can I just turn the motor by hand, loosten the bolt then retighten and just leave the long bolt and lock nut in place?

6, Sorry, but need more info for evem informed guess, year make & model for starters. Kaw used a couple different tensioners. depending... a wild assed guess is you've an aftermarket manual tensioner to boot.pic's in this case would be even better. G

The longer bolt essentially disables the automatic part of the tensioner, so yes if you still in fact have the 1979 auto tensioner, loosening the bolt will allow the tensioner spring to take up tension in the chain, then you have your choice of retightening the long bolt. This will hold the tensioner adjustment where it is so later you can repeat the process. The other option is using the correct short 6mm bolt. This will return the tensioner to fully automatic operation, however caution is in order. If the auto tensioner is broken, or it's a pre 1979 manual tensioner, using the short bolt will be a disaster. So to be safe, the tensioner should be removed from the engine and checked for proper auto operation before putting the short bolt in. Chances are the long is there for good reason.

it is the stock "auto" tensioner, i just assumed that the PO had put in the longer bolt while setting the tensioner in the motor and perhaps lost the original or something, I guess i'll just stick with the long one and keep up on tightening it every now and again. I havent tried to adjust yet because of the horrid story i read on here some time ago about the cam chain sounding like a chainsaw after trying to adjust but I guess I will give it a shot, just to clarify, crank the motor over by hand twice to move slack to the tensioner side then just back off the bolt and retighten and repeat if neccessary. right? I may even take out the tensioner completly just to clean it up and inspect and then reset it, what do you guys think?

I agree with Ron. You will have to adjust it by setting the the chain as if it were a manual adjuster. Turn the timing shaft a couple times and set as the shop manual shows. Loosen the bolt and then re-tighten the longer bolt so the tensioner shaft can't move. I did this with my KZ 650 E and it worked just fine. The automatic tensioner was wore out and this was an easy fix. Bob

thanks guys i will try it out tomorrow, i think id rather have it act as a manual tensioner any way that way i know that it cant back off and leave the chain loose (after I adjust it). The ape tensioner is on the list but till i can get it i'll just stick with this setup

Well I set the tensioner and the rattle seems to be a tad better but now I have sort of a "rattleing tick" if that makes any sense, at about 2000 through 3000 RPM, its not a steady "tick tick tick" its more of a ticking rattle instead of the very fast high pitched rattle that it made before, I know this problly doesent make much sense but thats about the best I can explain it.

Camchain is slackest in rear at TDC where adjustment procedure is able to remove more slack that at other crankshaft positions.

Good Luck!

just curious, why does it matter what posistion the crank is in? i will try it at top dead center in the morning but i figured if i just turned over the motor a couple times then all slack would be on the tensioner side, I will try it out though because obviously something is still off, now should it be on the compression stroke of the number one or does that matter?

6leafclover wrote:

...figured if i just turned over the motor a couple times then all slack would be on the tensioner side...should it be on the compression stroke of the number one or does that matter?

Kicking over a few times is okay to "loosen" the chain, but doesn't assure stopping with most slack at rear of camchain.

Should align the T mark by turning the 17mm "nut" (not the 13mm bolthead from end of crankshaft) clockwise in direction of normal crankshaft rotation. If go slightly past the T mark, do not turn it backwards. Go around again and repeat until able to stop just as T mark aligns.

Doesn't matter whether it's #1 or #4 on compression stroke.

Good Luck!

I tryed doing by the book, I had the valve cover off and noticed the chain was still a little loose.:woohoo:
Then I losened the adjuster then kicked the motor over 3 or 4 times. rotated to TDC and tighten the bolt and lock nut. chain was tight and no rattle. P.S. the length of the bolt won't matter just make sure it has a lock nut to keep it tight.:lol:

there is an aftermarket rebuild kit for the stock automatic tentioner that may be your problem or you may have broken a slider.the kits are from k&l supply or possibly z1 enterprises may have them to not sure. if the tentioner is all the way out and the cam chain is still loose then you have another problem.