slippery clutch

lapeerray wrote:

So slipping at high rpms means I need to adjust or replace the clutch?

Definitely adjust the hrow out mechanism first, then the cable play. If it still slips, you might want to run some flush through like seafoam in the oil for a 100 miles and replace the oil. Some oils will make wet clutches slip. If it still slips, you need a clutch and springs.

if it slips and every thing measures out properly i'd pull the steels out and look for bluing and a glazed appearance if they are glazed you can as long as they are not warped rough them up with sand paper or scotch brite pads or better yet if you have a bead blaster handy knock the glaze off them and give it a try. i reuse old plates in all my bikes including my 150 horsepower dragbike. i'm cheap and they work. i have only ever put a new clutch in one of my bikes and only because it was given to me in a sponsership deal. all the rest are old clutches taken out of high mileage street bikes. the fibers are usally good as long as there is not material missing from them.

Thanks timebomb, and every one else I pulled the small cover off and adjusted there seemed to do the trick thanks again !!! Im off and riding again!!!

I have always thought the KZ clutch lever was poorly designed. So this is what I have done. I bend it in a way that causes it to curl out.


I bet others here do the same thing. I actually set it closer to 1/4 inch slop also. The bend gives it more travel and is way more comfortable....Russ

Russ Jackson wrote:

I have always thought the KZ clutch lever was poorly designed. So this is what I have done. I bend it in a way that causes it to curl out.

I bet others here do the same thing. I actually set it closer to 1/4 inch slop also. The bend gives it more travel and is way more comfortable....Russ

Well, if you do that on a z1000/z1100 (and all others with 3-balls-and-a-ramp -clutch assy) engine you´re in a world of sh"t so please do not give such an advice since some guys might just do that. That may or may not have some effect in a worm-gear-clutch but I seriously doubt it.

Longer lever play has nothing to do with correct cluth operation. On a J/R engine z1000/z1100 you will jam the clutch open with just a slightly too long lever play than in the manual. Adjust your cluth assy first as per manual says and then you adjust cable so that you´ll have some loose/free play att the lever.

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Z1109, I think Russ was kidding! I hope he was anyway.
I had a dirt bike when I was a kid that both the clutch and brake handles were bent like that, just from normal daily abuse. They matched my Vise-Grip shifter. Then the brake handle broke down to where I could only get one finger on it. But who needs brakes on a dirt bike anyway?
And let's not forget the requisite nut dents in the gas tank. Gotta have those!:laugh:

riverroad wrote:

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Z1109, I think Russ was kidding! I hope he was anyway.
laugh:

Probably:P Atleast I really hope so:blink:

I have had the same issue and replaced a clutch that i didnt need to turned out my issue was neglecting to maintain my clutch cable it was not fully realeasing causing the slipping id start there check and lube the cable then adjust the clutch and check it again