Clutch wear questions.

Little B wrote:

Anyone think I need to be concerned with the clutch push rod?

bountyhunter wrote:

Mine is 2.9 - 3.1mm nominal and 2.7mm service limit.

If yours is near the limit, chuck the plates. Plate sets are cheap.

Wow, where do you get them cheap? I just called the dealership and they want 16.10 per friction plate. Over $112! :dry:
:blink:

I got mine from JC Whitney way back when. Check the usuals like:

Z1 Enterprises

babbitts online.com

They will ALWAYS beat the dealer prices by a mile.

EBC is an aftermarket company that makes parts. They are probably ok, but here's where you can get genuine Kawasaki clutch friction plates for a good price. According to Kawasaki.com you need 7 plates - part number 13088-030. Take a look at eBay Item number: 200112889274. He's selling the real deal for $7.95 each. I bought a set from him last year and they were genuine Kawasaki plates - not aftermarket, so I assume he's still telling the truth. By the way, whichever plates you buy be sure to coat them well with motor oil before installing so don't burn or get grabby when you first start the bike. Ed

Thanks again guys. I'll try using the scotch pad on the steel plates...they aren't burnt or anything...hell, they even have most of the little 'dot' indentations still.

MFolks wrote:

If you have the money and time while your clutch is apart, I think if it was me, I'd get the ball bearing cluch pusher sold at ape race parts,dyno man, or kz zone. It's supposed to be superior to what came stock on these bikes.

Do you know in what way it is superior? I'm a stock bike kind of guy as far as how I use it. Commuting & some touring. Is there any benefit to the needle bearing pusher other than the "eliminates risk of welding clutch push rod to the mushroom when pulling the clutch in at high speed"? It seems like that would be more of a concern for a racer or high performance type rider.

It's supposedly easier on the hand with a softer squeeze for dis-engagement.

Thank you Ed...I just ordered 7 from the fella you recommended.

MFolks wrote:

It's supposedly easier on the hand with a softer squeeze for dis-engagement.

Has anyone made the changeover to the needle bearing pusher and noticed this? Would you do the change again or did you find it wasn't worth the money?

i use the needle bearing pusher in all my drag or hot-rod bikes because i have experienced the welded push rod-ball bearing- pusher problem twice as a matter of fact i still have one of them mounted to my wall of shame. i ride very hard and if you pull the clutch in at a high rate of speed this will happen to you also but if your just a street cruiser kind of guy i woudn't worry about it, as far as it being an easier pull i don't know about that because i only use the cluth for leaving and gearing down in the lower gears so i'd normally wouldn't worry about it, i think having a new or really well lubed cable would be more important for that.

if you do by new fiber plates soak them in the same type of oil that you are using in your bike for at least 24 hours ahead of using them for the first time the plates will soak up the oil and you will be able to properly adjust your clutch adjuster also there is less chance of burning them up on inital use.

MFolks wrote:

If you have the money and time while your clutch is apart, I think if it was me, I'd get the ball bearing cluch pusher sold at ape race parts,dyno man, or kz zone. It's supposed to be superior to what came stock on these bikes.

Also available from Z1E (as are plates, etc.)

Click here > Z1E

Good Luck!

Thanks again guys.

Can anyone comment on my clutch push rod question? My thought is that as long as it moves smoothly through the hole and can push on the ball bearing, the groove in it shouldn't matter. Am I correct in that assumption?

Little B wrote:

...clutch push rod has a pretty good indentation on the clutch side....
Can anyone comment on my clutch push rod question? My thought is that as long as it moves smoothly through the hole and can push on the ball bearing, the groove in it shouldn't matter. Am I correct in that assumption?

Perhaps a pic could be posted to convey a better idea of the pretty good indentation and the groove.

If needed, a new push rod is available from Z1 Enterprises

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

Perhaps a pic could be posted to convey a better idea of the pretty good indentation and the groove.

Great Idea Patton.

Here ya go, the first three show the grove on the clutch side:







This is corrosion on the other side but no groves or anything...

Thanks for the pics.

The ends of the push rod look okay.

I would clean it up with a wire brush and wet-sand as needed to remove any rusty area. Then coat it with engine oil and keep on using it.

Good Luck!