Clutch wear questions.

I have my clutch apart for the first time and it mostly looks pretty good. I'm replacing the springs but other than that I don't know if anything else should be.

I measured the friction plates and they show just over the edge of being with-in tolerance. Does anyone know what the measurement of those are when new? I

The steel plates edges are rounded on one side and a perfect 90 degrees on the other...is that normal or do they need to be replaced?

The clutch push rod has a pretty good indentation on the clutch side. It seems to still move smoothly through the hole so is that something I need to be concerned with?

Any recommendations for other things to check while the clutch is off?

If you have the money and time while your clutch is apart, I think if it was me, I'd get the ball bearing cluch pusher sold at ape race parts,dyno man, or kz zone. It's supposed to be superior to what came stock on these bikes.

If you've got it apart already why not slap new plates in it? Especially if they are just over spec. Just seems like an awful lot of work to do twice...

Little B wrote:

The steel plates edges are rounded on one side and a perfect 90 degrees on the other...is that normal or do they need to be replaced?

That is just what they look like when they are pressed/cut out when new. Just put them in the same way, the smooth side in, or however yours came out. Check your old plates for warpage and thickness and replace if there is any doubt. Also, recommend you replace your clutch fibers with new Kawasaki parts, since you have everything apart.

Robert

Thank you for the replies ya'll.

GPz550D1 wrote:That is just what they look like when they are pressed/cut out when new. Just put them in the same way, the smooth side in, or however yours came out.[/quote]

Thank you for the clarification. I don't actually remember which way they came out. I wouldn't think it would matter though since both sides are essentially doing the same thing.

GPz550D1 wrote:Also, recommend you replace your clutch fibers with new Kawasaki parts, since you have everything apart.[/quote]

Are you talking about the plates that go in between the steel ones?

Little B wrote:

I measured the friction plates and they show just over the edge of being with-in tolerance. Does anyone know what the measurement of those are when new?

Mine is 2.9 - 3.1mm nominal and 2.7mm service limit.

If yours is near the limit, chuck the plates. Plate sets are cheap.

Anyone think I need to be concerned with the clutch push rod?

bountyhunter wrote:

Mine is 2.9 - 3.1mm nominal and 2.7mm service limit.

If yours is near the limit, chuck the plates. Plate sets are cheap.

Wow, where do you get them cheap? I just called the dealership and they want 16.10 per friction plate. Over $112! :dry:
:blink:

Ducati or Harley?

Huh?

You don't indicate what kind of bike you have. Ed

650ed wrote:

You don't indicate what kind of bike you have. Ed

But I told everyone in my HEAD!!! LOL :silly: Sorry, its a 1981 KZ750 LTD. :blush:

I did find friction plates on Z1's website for under $5 each. However, it says "we will substitute EBC plates". Is EBC a brand name or a different type of plate? Will they work as well as the stock ones?

ebc plates are a brand they also make brake pads and shoes they are very good at bonding fiber material to steel i don't know why every body has you throwing the old plates out keep them for spares and as for the steels if they aren't burnt and arent warped keep using them i have used scotch brite pads to knock the glaze of them but my favorite thing to do is bead blast them it gives a completly new surface for the oil to adhere to. as for old plates i have been using old plates in my drag bikes for years and i never have a slipping problem with those and as far as springs go the best ones are the stock kawi springs.