How do i remove the stopper plate screws??

I am trying to get the secondary shaft stopper plate off. it looks like the screws were staked in with a nail pinch. doesnt look like the most effective way to have done this, but how do you remove them without stripping the screws?

also was this done at the factory? kinda crazy to put a philips screw there and not some sort of torx or hex.

any trick to get these off would be appreciated.

im trying to get the cases to the guy tomorrow so he can soda blast them. I hope soda blasting works to clean them up.

thank you all

Yeah, the stopper plate screws are factory staked, it's next to impossible to remove them without an impact screwdriver - you should be able to pick up one (hammer type) at most auto/tool shops.

While hex bolts aren't an option as the bolts are countersunk I agree that allen or torx would have been a better choice, but I don't think they were even invented (at least not torx) when your bike was built.

they stake them at the factory so that they can't back out and enter the intake tract so you don't blow up your motor, why are you taking them all apart.

Thanks, just picked up an impact screwdriver (craftsman) works great.

I took it all apart so i can take it to be soda blasted tomorrow. and to make cleanup a bit easier when it is done. I'll just use a parts washer and some elbow grease to clean the baking soda out and wont have to wonder if there is any still left in the bearings. probably wouldnt do much dammage, but id rather only have oil in there....

when you put them back in make sure you stake them again and also loctite them in place there is a special type just for small fasteners like the ones in the butterflies just to be on the safe side

Tim, slight correction - he's talking about the bolts for the right side secondary shaft bearing stopper plate, pic below:

The 650 and 750 four bottom end is very different from the big bikes - the 650/750s have a secondary shaft driven off the crank by a primary (hy-vo/multiplate) chain, the gear at the end of the secondary shaft then drives the clutch basket.

Since all of the enginess power is transferred through the secondary shaft gear you will want the bearing to sit real tight - when reinstalling I always use a dab of Loctite on the bolts, tighten them down and restake them.

Here's a bottoms up pic of a 650 engine with the oil pan (and oil pump) removed: