Starting problem!!!!

Yeah, I realize that now that everyone mentions it. I also just thought about when I pulled the plug to check for spark, and it did NOT make the clanking noise. Also, now that I've been looking at the timing section of the manual I have, I realize that if I had followed the instructions there when replacing the points, I probably wouldn't have even needed this post. LOL! Says to set timing, THEN check gap. I know I read that too....my bad!

~Clutch

clutch wrote:

Can it be any kind of light (12v), or does it need to be a "timing light"? Also, just as an update, push started it when I got home, let it warm up a bit. I drove around the neighborhood a little bit and it's real sluggish.

That could be a symptom of retarded timing.

clutch wrote:

Yeah, I realize that now that everyone mentions it. I also just thought about when I pulled the plug to check for spark, and it did NOT make the clanking noise. Also, now that I've been looking at the timing section of the manual I have, I realize that if I had followed the instructions there when replacing the points, I probably wouldn't have even needed this post. LOL! Says to set timing, THEN check gap. I know I read that too....my bad!

~Clutch

See your learning already!

kzz1p wrote:

clutch wrote:

Yeah, I realize that now that everyone mentions it. I also just thought about when I pulled the plug to check for spark, and it did NOT make the clanking noise. Also, now that I've been looking at the timing section of the manual I have, I realize that if I had followed the instructions there when replacing the points, I probably wouldn't have even needed this post. LOL! Says to set timing, THEN check gap. I know I read that too....my bad!

~Clutch

See your learning already!

Always learning, and hey I don't mind making mistakes and struggling a bit...just makes the good stuff that much more enjoyable.

clutch wrote:

Yeah, I realize that now that everyone mentions it. I also just thought about when I pulled the plug to check for spark, and it did NOT make the clanking noise. Also, now that I've been looking at the timing section of the manual I have, I realize that if I had followed the instructions there when replacing the points, I probably wouldn't have even needed this post. LOL! Says to set timing, THEN check gap. I know I read that too....my bad!

~Clutch

Says to set timing, THEN check gap


Perhaps manual is wrong, confusing, or being misread.

Definitely supposed to FIRST adjust points gap, and SECOND set ignition timing (where F mark on advancer aligns with permanent timing mark on engine case.

Good luck!

After points gap has been set (and points surfaces have been cleaned of any oil or other residue), may then proceed with ignition timing where the objective is to get the F mark on advancer aligned with permanent timing mark on engine case just as the points begin to open.

Opening of the points is when the gap appears whereby the points surfaces are no longer contacting one another.

The points, when closed, provide a ground for the electric current passing through the coil primary windings.

When the points open (gap appears) the electric current from the coil primary winding loses its ground through the closed points, which causes the coil to "fire" through the spark plug wire.

There are two ways to set the timing (align the F mark).

The preliminary way usually done is called "static" timing with the engine not running. This static timing gets into the ballpark range toward correct timing.

With static timing, a lightbulb or ohmmeter is generally used to indicate the precise moment when the points begin to open (and when the F mark should align with the case mark). Without the lightbulb or ohmmeter, it is virtually impossible to detect with the naked eye the precise moment when the points begin to open.

Static timing only shows the situation for low rpm idle speed where the advancer unit remains in its most retarded initial "resting" position (the advancer springs are holding the counter-weights fully closed).

The better and more accurate way to set the timing is called "dynamic" timing. Dynamic timing is done with the engine running. A strobe-type timing light allows actually seeing with your own eyes how near the F mark aligns with the permanent engine case mark when the engine is running at low rpm idle speed.

Dynamic timing also allows watching the advancer unit operate as rpm is varied (blipping the throttle) and seeing the F mark move back and forth as the timing is automatically advanced and retarded. If the advancing movement back and forth fails to happen, the advancer isn't working, which may often be cured by cleaning and lubing the advancer unit (details of such cleaning and lubing are omitted in this already too long post).

Good Luck!

Whoever says timing isn't everything is a liar! LOL! Adjusted the timing as suggested and now the bike starts and runs better than it has since I bought it! Heck, it starts almost as soon as I hit the magic button too! Thank goodness I won't have to push start it anymore!!!!

Thanks for all your help guys...you all rock! And now...I'm going for a ride!

~Clutch