cam chain

78-kz650
ok, engine is out of frame so i can paint frame. I want to take head off and do the cam chain, valve seals, and new gaskets. This is my first rodeo on a 4stroke bike. I have done head gaskets/chains on my Saabs. and pistons on 2 strokes.

I have a Clymer book that isnt too in depth. ( it told me i couldnt take the engine out w/ head on....and told me it takes 2people ....HEH heads still on) i have SOME back left too!

I was wondering if im going to be able to replace the chain by fastening the new one to the old one with a wire and pull it through the bottom end like i do on my Saabs?

also what would u reccommend replacing as far as cam chain equipment?

Thanks a ton

i'd recommend spliting the cases and replacing the camchain with an endless type instead of using a master link it will last a lot better and for the extra work it is worth it. replace all your tentioners and idlers at the same time as well

P, I'm w/tbomb with using endless cam chain as it also allows inspecion of big end bearings and a look at shift forks/trans. replacing rubber roller/guides/chicklets also.. Replacing cogged/bearing rollers is steep, roughly a buck and a quarter each new. you must be the judge.luck G.

The masterlink isnt like the drive chain masterlink (open) on the timing chains i have done in the past. Is this the case with a cam chain i would get from Z1?

that was confusing ........ The timing chains i have done in the past had a masterlink that looked like a regular link and u pop it on with your friends expensive chain tool. it is not like the masterlink that came on my wheel (drive chain) with the open ended link that smaps on with pliers. what is the camchain masterlink like? Have people had bad luck with the masterlink type? Im not running NOS or a supercharger! have you heard of the masterlinks breaking?

P, camchain masterlinks are staking types. IE side plates are pressed to fit, then pins are peened. If done properly, all well and good. Unfortunatly,small errors result in "tight spots" at master. resulting in un-even tension/noise. the old saw, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link applys. a staking link isn't hardened thus the ability to peen, and makes it the weakest link. the point may be moot, But I prefer a quality endless chain. DID, EK are my choices. luck G

Have you measured the cam chain for wear to know for for that you need to replace it? I measured mine last year and was pleasantly surprised to find that it was well within the service limits after 46,000 miles. Ed

No i havn't measured the chain for wear. I just figured i would replace it while the head was off since it os only 50 bucks or so. the head is still on the motor because i want to clean her well b-4 i dismantle her. I did manage to Tom Sawyer my girlfriend into helping me with this.

I was going to replace the cam chain because it wouldnt make sense not to, but now i a seeing that you all want me to do the endless type, knowing that when i get the cyls off i will want to have them bored and get new pistons to boot. CLEVER. This route is going to cost me much more. My goal is to always have a motorcycle that is nicer than my car, it wont take much lol.

I have never split the cases b-4 and am a little nervous. should i be? Also where is the best place to get all the cam chain equipment (rollers tensioner etc)?

You can use the masterlink kind if you like and they work just fine. It's not like you have 400 Ft/lbs of torque trying to turn a rear wheel. The tensioner parts will be worn way before the chain. I think Jeff at Z1 said the chains normally last 30-40 thousand miles and at that time they are still probably not fully worn, but enough to alter cam timing enough not to be spot on.