Valve Cover

Actually guys, I do use RTV. There is a trick to it and there is a reason for it. If anyone has noticed, when you try to remove an old gasket which has been put on dry, "IT IS A B**CH" That is because the bonders in the gasket material bond themselves to that beautifully clean Aluminum. The way to use RTV, is to first of all use the right one. I personally use the Permatex Hi Temp "Ultra Black". Second of all, what you have to do is, first put it on one side as evenly and thinly as you can and let it totally cure. Flip the gasket over and do the same thing on that side. After it has cured install the gasket. What you will find is that, It will not stick so you can remove it nicely, and it will seal extremely well. I have been working on these since 1978 and have never had a problem.

Otto

To each, his own.
The only sealer that I will use, is plain old, Gasket Cench.(the one with a girl on a swing on the label) That very thin yellow sealer that can be used wet or tackie. I seal all the cover gaskets (valve cover, clutch, dyno, point housing,etc.) More or less I glue the gasket to the cover. If I have any problems, the gasket comes off with the part. It is easy to take the part to the workbench and clean it. Some gaskets will still be useable. The real trick is to do things right, so you don't have to take it apart. I hate oil leaks, they drive me crazy. I will not use silicone of any type. I don't want that crap showing or dripping on my paint or cases. Racers use it when they need a quick fix. There is nothing worse then a nice looking motor with silicone hanging out of it.Once again, different people have different ideas.

PS - I have made gaskets out of soap boxes and even a sheet of paper. anything will work, if you have clean dry surfaces.

Somtimes you win sometimes you lose, I like to paint the top side of V/C gasket w/ copper coat. it's a light coat and won't migrate to oil control orifices. it locates gasket, and in the event it breaks next time in, the majority of gasket will be w. cover where cleaning is on the bench instead of attop head. Tip, if your rings are on their last legs, cam end plugs can be installed inside out. not pretty, but they won't blow out. G

I put the valve cover on dry also. Although what Otakar does sounds like an idea to try. I use permatex on the end plugs. Put a thin film on the curved part and then press it into place. Wipe off any excess. Then a very then layer across top. I am anal about leaks on my motors so I like to seal them up good.

For the scraping, I'd just have a buddy hold a shopvac up there while you scrape away. This, along with the towels, should do the trick, as long as you don't suck up any shop towels. :laugh:

Lots of great discussion and ideas. Thank you all!

I'm a dry guy as well, with some sealer on the cam end plugs and their bolt threads. Of course I wipe any excess, if any, off after the squish-factor. I've seen the orange stuff on engines, and it makes my teeth ache. The Right Stuff has worked great for all I've applied it to.


All you're really looking for is for the gasket or sealer, to cover up any imperfections in the two surfaces, keeping the oil in, and the outside conditions out.

If APE made cam end plugs for the GPz550(ZX550), I'd buy them for all my GPz550 needs.