Clutch Cable

Hi fellows,

I have a 1980 KZ-750 4.
While waiting for Carbs from WG.

I decided to replace Throttle Cable and Clutch Cable.

The Haynes manual that came with the bike shows very little to nothing about Cables, and I know I need a factory Manual, its on the list.

Throttle Cable was easy enough.

The Clutch Cable, the upper part that goes into the hand control is easy enough, the bottom part that hooks underneath the bike is hard to see.

Maybe someone could say a few words on hooking up the bottom half of the Cable, or maybe a picture showing that area. Just don''t want to flub something up.

On my 82 GPZ1100 I have to remove the cover for the engine sprocket. The clutch mechanism is inside the cover and will need a new small cotter pin to secure the clutch cable from coming loose from the holder.

After the cable is re-installed, the clutch will need adjustment to work properly. There should be a slack adjuster mid way down the lenght of the cable. I like to collapse the cable as short as possible and then adjust the operation of the mechanism allowing smooth clutch operation.

yeah...what he said ...the only thing i'd add is to use a ten mm socket and take the bolt all the way out of your shift lever...then use a big flat head screwdriver or claw hammer to gently apply back pry to the shifter while you wiggle it off the spline then use the socket (unless you have allen screws)to take the cover off...go easy and you should be o.k.....you can switch the cable the way MFolks said...and then once the cable is cotter pinned in the sprockett cover ...install it in reverse of removal..... tap the shifter on last and try and remember where it was pointed..this is also a good time to lower it or raise it a notch on the shift spline to better fit your foot size/location when on pegs and shifting......when you do get your"shop manual" check for clutch push rod/actuator/ adjustment/procedure...thats the little access cover on your cover you'll have off...do that soon and get used to the order of taking up adjustment there first and working your way thru the cable with the final small step being at the hand lever....good luck

I would wait until I got the factory service manual because you're going to need to adjust the clutch and you'll need to do it correctly. Besides, you're not going to be able to use the bike until the carbs come back (so why hurry), and you should have the manual to put things back together. Have you found a FSM at a decent price? There are a couple on eBay. Ed

++ All the above PLUS.....I'd disassemble the release mechanism, thoroughly clean it in solvent, check for beat up balls/ramps etc, grease the heck outta everything and then reassemble it. I'd also lube the new cable while you can.
You'll be AMAZED:woohoo: at how light the clutch pull becomes after this "tuneup".

H2RICK wrote:

++ All the above PLUS.....I'd disassemble the release mechanism, thoroughly clean it in solvent, check for beat up balls/ramps etc, grease the heck outta everything and then reassemble it. I'd also lube the new cable while you can.
You'll be AMAZED:woohoo: at how light the clutch pull becomes after this "tuneup".

Plus one!
BIG difference,if it hasn't been done in a while.:woohoo:

Thanks fellows for the info.

Hands down this forum is the greatest.

650ed I'll check out EBay, Thanks:cheer:

I took the piece off today, it was'nt hard at all. I thought that cover was part of the engine, but it was'nt, thats why I was a little nervous about it.
Anyway its really dirty. I'll bet it has'nt been cleaned in years. I have bid on a factory manual at ebay. By the time I get everything cleaned the manual will be here and I can adjust the clutch by the factory manual.
Kinda hard for a guy thats 69 years young to get down that low to the ground but I did it. Thanks again Sandy, H2RICK, 650ed, trianglelaguna, & MFolks.............:woohoo:

Before installing the new cables, grab a ziplock bag, punch the end of the cable through the bottom of the bag and secure it with a zip tie or rubber band. Then pour your lube of choice into the ziplock back and hang it up so that the lube with work its way through the cable.

People will recommend lots of stuff from motor oil to silicone lube. Use what you like as long as it is NOT a penetrant like WD-40. Personally, I like the silicone lube.

I happen to have my cover off right now. I'll snap a couple photos when I get home.

l0g1c: Good point, that's exactly how I lube my cables. I use synthetic motor oil (Mobile-1) and let it hang overnight, but I'm sure any quality lubricant will work. If you do this with the cables on the bike, by sure to put a little pan, papertowels, or rags under the the lower cable ends because the lube WILL work its way through.

All that plus, once you've got every thing sorted, zip-tie cable to frame so's cable is as far away from exhaust as possible. stock cable has a spring/wire which prevents contact w/headers.Yet the most common cl.cable failure is due to melted housing. a new set-up,is almost un-natural in ease and feel. If stock. route accordingly, if not, big loops are better, even if they obscure guages. luck G

Cable clip from Z1E


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Good Luck!